2012 - Part (II) Venice, Italy to Barcelona, Spain.

May 7, 2012 – Antalya, Turkey

Antalya is a city on the Mediterranean coast of southwestern Turkey.  It was the world’s third most visited city by number of international arrivals in 2011, displacing New York, and had a population of over one million.  Antalya is the eighth most populous city in Turkey and the country’s biggest international sea resort.

The Taurus mountain range o southern Anatolia runs parallel to the Mediterranean in an east-west direction, resulting in the formation of narrow coastal plains surrounded by mountains on three sides and the sea on the fourth.

Some parts of the coast feature mountains plunging sharply into the sea, forming small natural bays and peninsulas.  Antalya is situated on one such plain where the mountains recede from the shore, consisting of two flat areas formed of travertine rock at a mean height of 115 feet; the town center is located on the rocky plain closest to the coast, with urban sprawl extending to the Kepezustu Plain further inland.

It is hot, hot, hot, today.  Already in the 80’s this morning.   There is a bit of gusty wind, also warm.   We took the shuttle to the city center.   When we alighted the bus, Adolfo took one breath, said he’d sit under a tree and I could go walk – he’d be right there when I was finished.

This town has a very beautiful setting, with the sea along its coast.   When the description above mentions “urban sprawl”, would say that this place is the epitome of urban sprawl.   From the time we left the ship for a 25 minute ride on the shuttle to the city center, and one can even see beyond, that there are thousands (we do not exaggerate!) of apartment/condominium buildings – all painted in varying shades of pastels – fairly new in construction.  Antalya is a summer destination for many Europeans.

So, Adolfo sat under a tree and I took off.   The first thing that struck me is a huge building to the right of the square.   It is advertised as a store for large people.   The letters at the top are each three feet high, in black, against a light grey marble exterior and proclaim for far and near to see – XXXL.  Along side the entry door are more XXXL letters, each about one foot high.   Honestly, if I needed to shop there, would go in deep disguise!!!   Can’t imagine what their shopping bags look like!  Seems to me a bit ridiculous that I should come all this way and have the first impression of this place be the XXXL store.

Off I went down a street, expecting to see some interesting shops – I did – more of the same as we saw in Rhodes, and other ports we’ve visited.  More goods, or same goods, made in China, and sold everywhere - mini bazaars selling all sorts of knockoff’s – many not very good.  And also once again, tons of jewelry stores with the same “original” Byzantine style jewelry.  Was taken aback for a minute as I passed more of the same, that all of a sudden there was a store filled with washers and dryers!   Why should that make me laugh?!?!?  Hiked up and down the streets for about 40 minutes.   Noted that when I climbed higher into the city, the shops became a bit more interesting, but decided not to have Adolfo wait for too long, so returned. 

Near the water, there was a beautiful photo opportunity that included the minaret tower for a call to prayer, the clock tower, and the intricate roofline with many domes of the local Mosque.

Back to ship we shuttled, a bit of lunch inside today, because the temps are soaring and then the usual afternoon of NN&R (needlepoint, nap & reading).

In the midst of my nap, Adolfo awakened me to show me a huge crown that had come loose – just put in a couple of months ago.   It’s so big, he must have a crater in his mouth!   Down he went to the doctor to be told that they didn’t have the right glue on board.   Strangely enough, another passenger has the same problem, so arrangements will be made for the two men tomorrow to visit a dentist in Anlanya, Turkey.

You’re going to visit a dentist in Turkey?  - to which Adolfo responds that they’re sending him to a veterinarian!

Funny comedian tonight for the entertainment by name of Yacov Noy -  very good and very sweet - nothing off color, or crude, just genuinely funny.   He was born in Poland, raised in a kibbutz in Israel, and immigrated to America, became an American citizen and lives in Ojai, California.   Says Yacov, people love his city so much that they say it all day long – “Oh Hi!”   I know, silly, but delivered with that bit of Israeli accent – very charming.

May 8, 2012 – Alanya, Turkey

Alanya is a beach resort city and in Antalya Province in the Mediterranean Region of Turkey – about 200 miles from Antalya.  Population consists almost entirely of Turkish origin but is home to around 10,000 European residents.  Because of its natural strategic position on a small peninsula into the Mediterranean Sea below the Taurus Mountains, Alanya has been a local stronghold for many Mediterranean-based empires, including the Ptolemaic, Seleucid, Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman Empires.  Alanya’s greatest political importance came in the Middle Ages, with the Seljuk Sultanate of Rum under the rule of Aleddin Kayqubad I, from whom the city derives its name.  The Mediterranean climate, natural attractions, and historic heritage makes Alanya a popular destination for tourism, and responsible for nine percent of Turkey’s turism sector and thirty percent of foreign purchases of property in Turkey.  Tourism has risen since 1958 to become the dominant industry.

So, I guess if we come back in ten years, this place will look like all the others with myriad shops selling the same stuff, ad nauseum – however, I am optimistic!   While Adolfo visits the “veterinarian” this morning, am going to wander around town, if the heat doesn’t get to me.   It’s a bit of a walk from the ship to the shops, but now that I’m fortified with my caffe and my bran muffin – I will go!    More later .  .  .

I walked and walked, probably two or three miles, nearing the old and very picturesque walled city up on the hillside to my left - so much to see here, a very interesting port.   Got directions to the shops (of course!). Native told me there were thousands of shops!   Walked along the waterfront, where boat upon boat lined up for tours – very old beautiful wooden boats, brought up to date with huge plastic water slides, motors along with sail rigged masts, mostly triple masts.   Black and dark green sails fluttered in the breeze, and men along the way tried a variety of languages to get me interested in a sail.  My first thought was that this must be Alanya’s answer to Disneyland!

Boats boasted huge pirate faces on the broad bows, all sorts of Jolly Roger flags flew and the atmosphere was one big water party – and this was at 9:30 in the morning!  On the landside of the promenade along the water, were row upon row of restaurants, thousands of chairs lined up at hundreds of tables waiting for people to drink coffee or eat a meal.   For many who spoke with me, this was their first recollection that a ship had come into port bearing Americans – and at that, we are perhaps a minority.  Most of the people on the ship are Aussies, Kiwis, and Brits.

Began my search for the “shops”.   Found those thousands of them and was so disappointed to find it was just more of the same merchandise.   Did find some very inexpensive “pedal pushers” and bought them in beige, white and black.   They will be my uniform in this very hot climate and I probably won’t bring them home, for I fear with a few washings they will surely fall apart.

After a couple of hours of wandering, I got back to the ship to find Adolfo still there, sans crown.   He was due to go with a ship’s agent at 12:30 to a local dentist.   A couple of hours later when he got back, he had a bit of a story to tell – of course!

His dentist was a young woman, very pleasant, with limited English.   She told him that the crown he’d lost was not the newer one, but an older one where the filling ‘neath the crown had crumbled, dislodging the crown.   The first step she took was new to Adolfo, who reported that she’d gone into his mouth with a small camera and taken four photos, so that as she explained the procedure to him, he could see exactly what she would be doing.

First, she had to redo the filling, and then would replace the crown.   When in place, she had him do the usual tapping to see if the fit was right.   All Adolfo could reply, was “too high”.   This went on for six or seven tries.   She finally said to him:   “Okay, Mister Too High, how is fit now?”   To which he replied “Perfetto”!   She beamed, Adolfo was whisked back to ship and all is well – at the cost of almost $400 later.  However, it is calming to know that in case of a “situation” like this one, we are well looked after.

A quiet evening, and looking forward to Cypress tomorrow, a county we’ve not visited.

May 9, 2012 – Larnaca, Cypress

Larnaca, is the third largest city on the southern coast of Cyprus after Nicosia and Limassol. To the north of the city lies the island's former oil refinery, which was reduced to a storage facility after the refinery itself was sold in 2008 to a Hollywood film studio for the filming of Waterworld 2. To the south is the Larnaca International Airport. The city of Larnaka is well known for its picturesque seafront which includes rows of palm trees (or φοινικούδες finikoudes, in the Cypriot dialect). Larnaca Marina is one of the four official entry points, by sea, to Cyprus.

Larnaca was founded by Greeks (Mycenaean-Achaeans) in the 14th century B.C. and was known as Kition, or (in Latin) Citium. The biblical name Kittim, though derived from Citium, was in fact used quite generally for Cyprus as a whole, and occasionally by the Jews for the Greeks and Romans. Larnaca is colloquially known as "Skala" (Greek: Σκάλα) meaning "ladder" or "landing stage", referring to the town's status in history as an important port.

Our today was “Chirokitia Lefkara Village & Aggeloktisti Church – 5 hours.  Knowing what’s coming up the next two days with really long tours, we approached this one with some trepidation.

Our first stop was Chirokitia (pronounced keero-kee-teeya).  Here we found another UNESCO World Heritage site – a Neolithic village dating back to 8000 BC. - for me that is beyond comprehension.   This particular stop was labeled with a “moderate walking” rating, but in fact, was really arduous, including a steep climb up stairs to view the village ruins.  Adolfo took one look at the pathway/steps, and declined.   I was determined!

Began my ascent to the half way point, and while I might have gone all the way, time was running out for our return to the bus.    So, half way was my final destination.   From that vantage point I could view and take photos of the rocky ruins – what was left of the very small circular homes of the Neolithic times.   These people were very tiny – had to be to fit into these homes.   Average age span was to 14 years.   I really don’t know anything more about this time, but I can say I’ve been there!!!

Then on the bus to a mountain village – Lefkara – where the woman of the town sit in front of their homes on a chair, drinking coffee or tea, speaking with the passers by, and demonstrating the stitchery for which this town is famous.  Lots of embroidered linen and beautiful lace – much to buy, but my feeling is that the day of the antimacassar on furniture is passed.   So, we walked, we looked, took photos of the homes with wrought iron balconies, many beautifully decorated with flowering plants, lit a candle for Vyvien in the local church, and returned to the bus.

Then on down the mountain to Aggeloktisti Church – translation is “Church the Angels Built”.   There is a wonderful, sweet story connected to this Byzantine church which has been restored since an earthquake that devastated much of the old architecture of the region.

When the original church was being built, the locals would work all day, go home to sleep, and upon returning the next morning, find that their work had been matched during the night.   This went on for several days – no one could figure out who was doing the work during the night.  

Two of the workmen decided to hide in the bushes to see what happened during the night.   What they saw was astounding!  When it got dark, angels descended from Heaven and proceeded to work through the night.   Whatever amount of work was done by the men during the day, was matched by the angels at night – ergo – Church that the Angels Built!

Gratefully, back to the ship for a late lunch and a rest.   Very hot today – extremely enervating.   Want to drink more fluids, but often restrooms are horrid – I need not say more.

May 10, 2012 – Haifa, Israel

Haifa is the largest city in northern Israel, and the third largest city in the country, with a population of over 268,000.  Another 300,000 people live in towns directly adjacent to the city, including the cities of Krayot, Tirat Carmel, Dallyat al-Karmel and Nesher.   Together, these areas form a contiguous urban area home to nearly 600,000 residents which makes up the inner core of the Haifa metropolitan area.

Haifa is a mixed city:  90% are Jews, more than a quarter of whom are immigrants from the former Soviet Union, while 10% are Arabs, predominantly of the Christian religion.  It is also home to the Baha’i World Centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Today began a marathon of site seeing that was to continue for two days.  Our trip to Nazareth, and surrounding areas would be ten and a half hours long, but should be wonderful.

Through the very busy port we bussed, about 30 of us on the bus, past a nuclear power plant, and on toward Nazareth, passing a mixture of arid plain and forested areas.    Our tour was to include “Nazareth Highlights & The Sea of Galilee”.  Our guide, “Achiya” (that’s a phonetic spelling!) was a tall – strapping Jew, very well English spoken, knowledgeable, and fun – the perfect guide.

Describing these two days in Israel will be very difficult, so please bear with me.  Though I can tell you where we’ve been, the experience is difficult to put into words, especially this day, where we had time to reflect, light candles and pray in places we’ve only read about in the gospels.

Thought Nazareth was a bit scruffy, at least what we saw of it.   Old buildings, streets that were pretty rough and a bit dirty.   However, at the first overlook, we were on a street that separated a huge parcel of land that is home to the Baha’i World Center.  There are nine terraces of the most beautifully manicured gardens we’ve ever seen – thousands of roses primarily in red and white, green lawns, beautiful trees – perhaps it stands out so clearly because of the dusty buildings which surround this parcel.  Am hoping our photos will do this stop justice.

Next stop - the Church of the Annunciation.  The architecture of this church is symbolic, as it resembles a lighthouse.   As the lighthouse denotes a safe harbor for ships, this church is a safe harbor for those in need.  This church rises out of a disheveled neighborhood, seemingly predominantly Moslem and is one of Christendom’s most revered shrines, built on the site where the Archangel Gabriel announced to Mary that she would be the mother of the Messiah – the Son of God.  It is one of the largest and most magnificent churches in the Holy Land – this new structure dedicated in 1969.

The Church of the Annunciation has received mosaics from all over the world, all dedicated to the honoring the Virgin Mary, fabricated by artists to be a part of this church and gifts from those Christian countries.  In the courtyard, there are many such mosaics, measuring about 2 X 5 feet, spaced evenly throughout the courtyard, together with plaques identifying their origin.   Inside the church are huge mosaics lining both walls.   The mosaic from America measures maybe 5 X 15 feet, the background is primary colors that appear to be enameled.   The center figure is the Madonna, in some sort of dull silver metal, crafted in a very modern, three-dimensional way, with the Madonna’s face appearing to be brass.   It is very bold and wonderful.   What is most interesting with all of these Madonna mosaics is the fact that depending on where the mosaic originated, the Blessed Mother is often in the traditional dress of that country, i.e., from Japan, the Madonna is dressed in a very beautiful kimono.

Local Moslems have tried (and failed!) to build a mosque taller than the church, directly in front of this church.  Won’t comment further!

Directly behind the Church of the Annunciation is the Church of St. Joseph, dedicated to the Holy Family.   This is the only church in all of Israel dedicated to the Holy Family.   It is very beautiful.  As we walked through, we were fortunate to see what looked to be a part of the Mass, being sung by about half dozen Franciscan priests.  We climbed on down to the basement where there was an old, stone public bath, often used by brides prior to their weddings in ancient times.  Through all churches we viewed today and tomorrow, most are built on sites of original buildings.   Ruins have been excavated and one can see though grates and/or glass flooring the older portions of the buildings below.   Very interesting and extremely difficult walking!   One is often looking not to fall, and misses what should be looked at – which is not the floor!!

According to tradition, this church is built over the site of St. Joseph’s workshop.   It is there that Joseph would have taught Jesus the trade of carpenter.

Then back to the bus – and ride to Cana, the site of Jesus’ first public miracle where He turned water into wine at a wedding reception.   Situated on the road between Nazareth and Tiberias, the present Arab village of Kafr Kana rests today on the ruins of ancient Cana.  The area abounds with olive groves and pomegranate orchards.

Next stop was Capernaum, where Jesus lived for a while.  There we visited the ruins of the Capernaum Synagogue, quite nice ruins, as ruins go!  At least there were lots of standing pillars!  At this site is also the Church of St. Peter, built over the site of home of St. Peter.  In order to preserve this site, a modern church was recently built directly over it, resting on eight pillars and has an octagonal shape, just like the original church.  When seated at the church for Mass, one has a sweeping view of adjacent hills and the Sea of Galilee – very modern use of marble and wood, but really beautiful – a perfect place for reflection.   

In the distance can be viewed the Greek Orthodox Church with its many bright pink, different sized domes, all topped with golden crosses.

What I’ve forgotten to mention is that this day was very HOT!   By the time we reached Capernaum, the temperature was 105 degrees – almost too hot to enjoy anything.

Somewhere in this part of the day – can’t remember exactly when, we went to a local kibbutz where we had one of the best lunches ever.   You could have hot entrees, and/or choose from the most lavish salad table (that was my choice!).  Wonderful dressings, grilled eggplant with something wonderful on top, all sorts of fresh vegetables, and best of all, the most tasty hummus I’ve ever eaten!   I stopped myself from seconds – barely!

Back to the bus and a short ride to the Church of the Beatitudes.  This church was built in 1936-38 (around the time I was born – 1938) and is on the site where Jesus gave his Sermon on the Mount.  A monastery and hostel stand nearby.   The church is shaped in an octagon, representing the eight Beatitudes from the Sermon on the Mount.

            Blessed are the poor in spirit, for theirs is the kingdom of heaven;

            Blessed are those who mourn, for they will be comforted;

            Blessed are the meek, for they will inherit the earth;

Blessed are those who hunger and thirst for righteousness, for they will be filled;

Blessed are the merciful, for they will receive mercy;

Blessed are the pure in heart, for they will see God;

Blessed are the peacemakers, for they will be called children of God;

Blessed are those who are persecuted for righteousness’ sake for theirs is the kingdom of heaven.

This was my most favorite church of the day.   We had time here, without guiding, time to pray, reflect and imagine what Christ saw when he gave his famed Sermon.

This church is unique because it faces west, when all other churches in Israel face to the east.   The architect, an Italian by name of Barluzzi, took special pride in the architecture and wanted the church to face in the same direction as Jesus when he delivered his sermon.   He fought hard for this and won.

All Roman Catholic churches seem to be run by either Franciscans or Benedictine monks.

We could see the Sea of Galilee, this huge fresh water lake for more of the time in the afternoon, which is surrounded by fertile valleys, much like an earthly Garden of Eden.  It is the lake on which Jesus walked on water.   Out guide challenged anyone to try to duplicate that miracle!

Next stop was the River Jordan, at the Yardenit Baptismal Site.   People were being baptized as we went through this center.  It is where John the Baptist baptized Jesus, and where, daily, pilgrims arrive from all over the world to be baptized here.

One purchases a white gown, goes down to the water’s edge and when it is time for the next baptism, enters the water.  The trick is to never wash the gown, but dry it, put it away, and when one dies, be buried in it – a surety to enter at the head of the line for Heaven!

Interestingly, there were absolutely the largest catfish we’ve ever seen in this part of the Jordan River.

Finally, it was time to go to the bus and back to our home away from home, the Seabourn Quest.   We’d spent most of the day with new friends from Australia – Russell and Ann.   I was horrified to realize that when we arrived at the ship, I never said a word to either of them, just climbed up to my room and collapsed.   Adolfo said he wanted to go to the Grill Deck for dinner.   That meant that I had to start from scratch – shower, makeup, hair wash and it was already 7:30 pm.   I declined, showered and got into my pj’s.  Conditioned my hair and let it dry natural – it would be a total mess in the morning, but was too tired to worry about it then!   Tomorrow could be an all-day hat day!   Ordered a BLT, with room service, opened a bottle of wine, and tried to assimilate all that we’d seen and done this date.   It was too much!

And so to bed for a sleep much deserved – must get up early again tomorrow morning for a tour of Jerusalem.

 May 11, 2012 – Ashdod, Israel

The sixth largest city in Israel, Ashdod is located in the Southern District of the country on the Mediterranean coast, located 20 miles south of Tel Aviv, 12 miles north of Ashkelon and 33 miles west of Jerusalem.   The Port of Ashdod is Israel’s largest port accounting for 60% of the country’s imported goods.  The first documented settlement in Ashdod dates to the Canaanite culture of the 17th century BC, making the city one of the oldest in the world.   Ashdod is mentioned 13 times in the Bible.

During its history, Ashdod was settled by Philistines, Israelites, Byzantines, Crusaders and Arabs.  Modern Ashdod was established in 1956 on the sand hills near the site of the ancient town and incorporated as a city in 1968.

Have put off writing about this day, because much of it bothered me.  It was a tremendous thrill being in Jerusalem, but the day, at least for me, had its pitfalls.

Perhaps it was because we’d barely surfaced from the ten and a half hour tour the previous day and hadn’t slept enough, before we were off again for more sightseeing and assimilation of more important information.

We left the ship at 7:30 a.m., our tour scheduled to depart at 9:15, but because some buses have been leaving earlier, we were on the first full bus, and left at 8:50.  This was a good call.   Perhaps we’d be able to do more before it got too hot.

We’d booked a tour called “A Day In Christian Jerusalem”.  This was to include a 90-minute drive from Ashdod to the Holy City and enter the Old City via the Jaffa Gate.  During the tour we would see the Western Wall (Wailing Wall), the Christian Quarter, the Dome of the Rock, walk along part of the Via Dolorosa where Christ carried the cross prior to His crucifixion, have lunch and then drive to the Mount of Olives for photo taking of the city at an overlook - then a shopping stop.

 “Asher”, our guide – a very proud Israeli, as he should be, tended toward arrogance.  From him we learned that in Israel, the sprinkler had been invented, the cherry tomato had been developed, most of Intel’s accomplishments happened in Israel, and more that I can’t remember.   Haven’t checked out any of these statements because when trying to Google anything here on the ship, it could take one the better part of a day!  I did find interesting that they plant the cherry tomatoes in sand dunes, water them with sea/salt water, and this crop flourishes.

Just before we arrived in Jerusalem - a very nice road trip on four lane super highway for much of the way, Asher pointed out somewhere that I never saw, a memorial to 9/11 given by the people of Israel.  Finally in the city of Jerusalem, we found the buildings looking fresher than those in Nazareth, and the government buildings beautifully designed with lush gardens surrounding them.   Of note were the Israeli Parliament building (Knesset), and the High Supreme Court building.   Believe Asher told us that although Tel Aviv is the true capital of Israel, Jerusalem is the cultural capital of the country.  I may have that incorrect

He gave all bus passengers a vote as to whether or not they wanted to begin at the bottom of the hill at the Western Wall, walk UP the Via Dolorosa, or begin at the top of the hill at the Church and walk DOWN the Via Dolorosa to the Western Wall.  You can guess that DOWN won!

We departed the bus fairly close to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.  The weather was already pretty hot, and there’s not much shade.   We went to the courtyard prior to entering the Church for a lecture.   Some of the people in our tour were very cranky and suggested that they hadn’t come to hear him speak, but wanted to see the Church.

The Church of the Holy Sepulchre is a complex of buildings that form the basis of what we still see today.  In the center of the complex rests the Holy Sepulchre; above it a magnificent rotunda with its marvelous dome highlights the spot.   Next to it is the mount of Golgotha (Calvary).  Below Golgotha is the Chapel of Adam, built in honor of the first man.  At the entry to the church lies the anointment stone where, as tradition has it, Jesus’ body was laid prior to its burial.  Within the church complex many important chapels provide places of worship.  The building is shared by many Christian denominations, including Catholics, Greek Orthodox, Armenians, Syrians and Copts, while the Abyssinians occupy a portion of the roof.

As we entered we were met with hordes of people, pushing and shoving to get to another spot.  We went up some very narrow, steep, uneven stairs – very difficult for Adolfo - only to wander past side chapels where we might have lit candles, but the guide was too busy speaking.  This day was not to be at all spiritual, but a tour de force!

When we descended another stairway we alit in front of the anointing stone, where Jesus is believed to have been prepared for burial after the crucifixion.  We watched pilgrims kneeling on the stone floor adjacent to the anointing stone, kissing the stone, placing objects on it for blessing, praying, placing their foreheads on the stone – it was very moving.   All the while our guide spoke and finished up with “While many believe this to be the anointing stone, it probably is not.”   And, this is the way the rest of the tour would go.

After more twists and turns, up and down stairs through the Church, we passed a huge line of people waiting to get in to see something that I’m not certain – but believe it was what was left of the gravesite of Jesus.  Many wait in that line for more than five hours.

Then out to begin the Via Dolorosa (Way of Sorrow), backwards, with our guide telling us this probably wasn’t the exact place where a particular station was when Jesus walked his journey.   Well, it stands to reason that in over 2000 years, structures have been built over previous structures, new path ways over old ones.  However, one would hope that the approximate location is true, and should be assumed – not doubted – constantly – especially on a “Christian” tour.

I desperately wanted to light a candle in Jerusalem, for Vyvien, but instead did something that I never thought I would do.   Our guide gave us time to visit the Wailing Wall, the area divided so that men go to the left and women to the right – said it was okay for Christians to participate and say their own prayers – so Angel Vyvien, a prayer for you and family now rests in a crack of the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem!

We were taken on a walk through the Jewish quarter, part of the Christian and Moslem quarters.   The crowds were horrific, the stones were slippery and steep.  So, as often happens in old places, we looked where we were placing our feet rather than what we were passing.  Believe it was truly a miracle that no one in our group got injured, left behind or lost forever.

Did you know that the old city of Jerusalem is divided into four quarters – Jewish, Christian, Armenian and Moslem.   What is even more interesting is that the Moslem quarter actually takes up fifty percent of the area.    The remaining fifty percent is divided amongst the other three – but they are still called “quarters”!

We had a lovely lunch at a huge hotel, The Olive Tree Hotel, formerly the Shalom Salaam, got back into the bus and drove to the Mount of Olives for an opportunity to photograph the city of Jerusalem from above.   By this time it was so hot that we didn’t really want to stand out in full sun to take photos.    Then another stop to shop for all of the usual stuff we’ve been seeing everywhere – mostly junk.   Wanted to shop for three First Holy Communion presents, either yesterday or today, but saw nothing that I wanted to take home.   So those gifts will not come from the Holy Land.

Finally back to ship, I climbed up five flights for a glass of Sauvignon Blanc and brought it back to our cabin.   Tasted wonderful!

This day was sadly disappointing for me.   Had the guide been more focused on giving us a “Christian” tour, rather than filling us in on what he believed, the day could have been a winner.   As we walked, climbed and rode through the day, noticed many small groups being led by Orthodox and Catholic Priests and even a few Nuns.   If I’m ever lucky enough to come here again, that is the way I’ll see Jerusalem.

Given all of that, we are still very lucky to have been here and to take home the knowledge that we traveled in the Holy Land, where our faith began – the Roman Catholic Church that today after over 2000 years, in spite of its problems, feeds the largest number of the world’s poor, and in my own country takes care of the sick in its hospitals and educates many in its institutions. 

What the Israelis have done with this arid land is truly a wonder.   Almost every tree, and there are many, have been planted by people to help fulfill the need for work programs.   Even now, all along the way, one sees saplings, staked out in the dry earth, that will one day add more to the forestry of this land.

There is much more to see and do in Israel.   Someday I would like to come back and have more than two days here, for we’ve barely touched the surface of this culture.  I’d come back just for the hummus!!!!

5.12.12 – At Sea

An easy day today, especially cherished after the last two daunting days.  We are at sea for all day on our way to Alexandria, Egypt.   Went to a cooking class in the morning where the Executive Chef de Cuisine Niels Rathert showed us three different ways to cook small fish – Sea Bream.  As he was showing us the different methods, they were a bit difficult to handle and he referred to the “fishies”, as “slippery little bastards”!

Tonight we had the chef’s dinner – a tasting menu of six courses.   Here’s the menu:

1.     Tuna Tartar with Tomato and Avocado Topped with Caviar, sesame vinaigrette and baby greens.

2.     Celery Rot Veloute, with truffle foam.

3.     Seared Fresh Foie Gras with Duck Confit, with caramelized apples and aged port wine reduction.

4.     Refreshing Champagne Lime Sorbet

5.     Grilled Mediterranean Seabass Fillet with Manchego-Chorizo Crust, saffron beurre blanc, carrot ginger mash and sautéed vegetables

OR

Whole Roasted Beef Tenderloin Stuffed with Lobster, truffle potato cake, garden vegetable sauce choron

6.     Cointreau Chocolate Pyramid, chocolate mousse flavored with cointreau served with pistachio ice cream and raspberry coulis

All very delicious, ‘cept for the foie gras – don’t know what all the fuss is about!!  My palate is just sophisticated enough!

5.13.12 – Alexandria, Egypt

We’ve been here before, been out to Giza to see the pyramids.  It was wonderful.   Our decision today is to stay on board.   The other tour that might have interested us is over thirteen hours, involves a trip down the Nile – not for us right now.  We could have gone in to see the library, but those that did, also saw much of Alexandria and Cairo and were sorely disappointed at the filth in the cities.   Garbage is everywhere, no one seems to care at all, and everyone who toured went under armed guard – as we did several years ago.   We had a very peaceful day.   Spent all afternoon up on the pool deck, in the shade, needlepointing.   Have completed three Christmas ornaments and am beginning the fourth one today.

5.14.12 – At Sea

Another easy day at sea, on our way to Crete, where we have a tour scheduled to see the famous Greek windmills.   Only thing difficult today was the Galley Tour Lunch.   We picked up our plates, were offered a shot of vodka which should be consumed in one gulp prior to beginning the buffet.  In all the cruises I’ve done, have never accepted the vodka, but today I did – probably just so I’d have something to write about!   The scary thing is that it had no effect which means I’m either becoming desensitized to alcohol, ate too much after the shot, or my body weight totally absorbed it – all bad!

Didn’t eat too much – just a tiny bit of pasta Bolognese, piece of veal Milanese, and then a bit of dessert.   The desert buffet is the most beautiful during these galley lunches.  Don’t think there’s a dessert you could ask for that isn’t there – Tiramisu, Panna Cotta, Jello, Baked Alaska, Princess Cake, Pineapple Tart (mini), fresh fruit, Ricotta Cheesecake, Croquembouche (not certain that’s the correct name, nor if it’s spelled correctly, but it’s that cream puff tree, all put together with a hard syrup), and too many more desserts to mention.

May 15, 2012 -  Agios Nikolaos, Crete, Greece

Agios Nikolaos is a coastal town on the Greek island of rete, lying east of the island’s capital, Heraklion, north of the town of Ierapetra and west of the town of Sitia.   The town is a municipality which sita partially upon the ruins of the ancient city of Lato pros Kamara.

Agios Nikolaos was settled in the late Bronze Age by Dorian occupants of Lato, at a time when the security of the Lato hill fort became a less concern and access for the harbor at Agios became sufficiently attractive.  (this is an awkward description and I’m not really certain what it means!)

The name Agios Nikolaos means Saint Nicholas, and its stress lies on the second syllable of the word “Nikolaos” – the name also being a common place name in Greece and Cyprus since Saint Nicholas is the patron saint of sailors and of all of Greece.

We participated in an organized tour this date to see an old monastery that now houses several nuns of the Greek Orthodox Church.  The old church there has a rich history, is high up in the mountains surrounding Agios Nikolaos, sits at about 3000 feet above see level and has wonderful views into the surrounding valleys.   The gardens are lovingly tended by the nuns in residence – flowers, fruit trees, large herb bushes.   Candles lit there for friends, family and Vyvien.

The road up to the monastery is one of the most twisty, turny roads – absolutely horrible, with steep drops, at times on both sides.  We navigated through the tiniest of villages where we eked through the negligible space on either side, barely missing taking out the corner of a house, or sheering off the edge of someone’s roof.  The bus driver was truly amazing!   All through this bus trip were ruins of very old windmills which Cretans used to get water up from wells in olden times – looks like some may still use this method.  With regard to windmills, many of the hills that have lots of wind now sport modern windmills that provide power for local residents.   We seen this phenomena in many of our stops this trip.  The windmills are just the ones we see going over Altamont Pass in California.

One wonderful thing about going through these very small towns is that you see the residents who look like they’ve never left their villages, the women widows dressed all in black, very worn, wrinkled and tired looking faces but with such character, hands that have worked so hard – and the old men all sitting around smoking, have animated conversations and drinking coffee or just sitting, looking at us in the buses as though we’ve got to be nuts!

After the visit to the monastery, we descended a bit into a beautiful valley called the Lassithi Plateau, or Plain.   Verdant meadows, lush plantings, vegetables and fruits – and still those very tiny villages.   Surrounding this plain were very high mountains many that reach 5,000 feet, and some still have snow on them.

After a tour of the Lassithi, we went back up the mountain for a bit of local refreshment which included a mini veal meatball (really mini!), a bit of cucumber, teeny, tiny Greek olives, a bit of local cheese, some crunchy bread, and a bit of fried dough filled with ricotta cheese.   Tasty!   Could also have wine or the local “fire water”.   Of course, had to taste the “fire water”, which turned out to be the Greek version of Italian grappa, with just a hint of anise in it.  Was good!

Then back on to the bus for our scary descent and back to the ship.   A good day filled with something other than sleeping, eating and needlepointing!!

May 16, 2012 – Mykonos, Greece

Mykonos is a Greek Island, part of the Cyclades, lying between Tinos, Syros, Paros and Naxos.  The island area is about 33 square miles, and mountains rise to 1,119 feet at its highest point.  The largest town on the island is also named Mykonos (so does that mean that if you live here, your address is Mykonos, Mykonos?!) and lies on the west coast of the island – the town is also known by name of Chora (i.e., the Town in Greek, following the common practice in Greece when the name of the island itself is the same as the name of the principal town).  Tourism is the principal industry of the island.

In Greek mythology Mykonos was the location of the battle between Zeus and the Titans, and the island was named in honor of Mykons, son of Anios who was a son of Apollo and a nymph named Rio.

Early human inhabitants here were Carians, followed by Ancient Egyptians, Phoenecians, Cretans and Ionians.

While we’ve been here before and taken the ferry over to Delos to walk through the ruins on a guided tour (which was wonderful), we decided to wander through the town.  So, after we were tendered ashore, hopefully early enough before everyone from all ships (we counted six) who were in port descended on this little place, we began or walk. 

There were locals selling their fresh vegetables – zucchinis, both gigantic and small, round and oblong, made me think of zucchini frittata, beautiful tomatoes, onions, eggplant (of course!), and wonderful old men selling the products.   Then on to what was left of the day’s fresh catch – beautiful fish caught locally.  We wandered around the waterfront, such a picturesque spot, with some beautiful clouds in the sky today, so photos should be very good.

We did have a mission today.   Adolfo lost one of those little gizmos that keep your eyeglasses comfortably on your nose, so we needed to find an optical store.  We did, two new gizmos on his glasses and I could now shop!

Then up the main street where there were shops. The shops are all very pretty, with pristine white marble floors, or cement floors that are painted white and so very clean.  The clothing is artfully displayed in most shops and easy to look at the drool!

It is my understanding that Mykonos is the main stop for mega yachts in this area, so the shops are quite something.   Along with the little shops that sell the usual souvenirs, there are very exclusive shops selling one of a kind dresses, jackets, etc.   Lots from Italy, beautiful fabrics, very interesting designs – and of course, extremely pricey.  Jewelry, too, is particularly beautiful here and very unique.   While most of what we looked at was pricey, I found a very lightweight, 100% cotton, loose shirt, colorful print, for under $40 – am happy.   Time to return to the ship.

As we walked back along the harbor toward the tender, there was a pelican that seemed to perform for all who will watch.   As Adolfo tried to take a photo, the pelican charged him, flapping his great wings, squawking at him, and tried to bite his arm.   Never saw my hubby move so fast!   The beak just grazed his arm, left a tiny bit of a mark that disappeared in a few hours.   Scared me, but it was very funny!

Back to the ship - tonight is a formal night.   We arranged to have dinner with Ann and Russell from Australia, so we can have one last visit prior to their departing the ship at Istanbul in just two days.   We will really miss these two.   They are great fun, so easy and natural.   Adolfo and Russell get along just great – both constantly trying to “take the mickey” out of each other, and Ann and I often just sit there looking at one another, rolling our eyes!

It’s such fun to travel with Brits, Aussies and Kiwis ‘cause I pick up some great expressions!

May 17, 2012 – Canakkale, Turkey

Canakkale – town and seaport in Turkey in the Canakkale Province, on the southern (Asian) coast of the Dardanelles at their narrowest point, has a population of 106,116, as of 2010.   Like Istanbul, this province has territory in both Europe and Asia. 

The city is the nearest major town to the site of ancient Troy.  “The “wooden horse” from the 2004 movie “Troy” is exhibited on the seafront.

We were docked this morning at a pier about 25 minutes from the center of the city of Canakkale, so we were required to take a local shuttle into town, which we did, walked a bit for 20 minutes and returned to the shuttle to go back to the ship.

The harbor itself is very pretty, but the town is sad.  Stores hold merchandise that is dull and boring, shops appear unscrubbed, especially after yesterday’s shopping in Mykonos.  The pastries in the windows looked mouth watering, but the windows are dirty, and the shops don’t appeared cared for.

One thing I noticed was that many of the buildings, even though run down, appear to be unfinished.   Adolfo told me that in Turkey, one pays a fee for starting a new building.   While that building is unfinished, there are no further fees, but once the building is complete, that changes.

So the clever Turks, build a several story building, and never finish the top story.  Some building are just shells on the top floor, and some are completed but have a full story of rebar sticking straight up, to show that more is to come.  Very clever, but not too pretty!

Most Aussie passengers took a tour today to the Gallipoli Memorial, where so many Aussies lost their lives during World War I.    All but a few passengers who remained are packing their suitcases and leaving the ship tomorrow at Istanbul – the Aussies will also be packing when they return from their tour today.   Tonight we’ll see the hallways filled with packed suitcases, waiting to be hauled down to the hold for easy offloading tomorrow.

And, the cruise begins anew for us on Saturday, trying to make new acquaintances.  We haven’t as yet, reached the halfway mark, but we’re almost there.   Hard to believe – time is going very fast.

Neither one of our iPhones is working.   Have tried to get on to the AT&T website, but haven’t been able to – will try again later.   Don’t understand why neither phone all of a sudden doesn’t gets reception from local phone companies.   Have never had problems in the past.   Oh, well, I love a challenge!

More to come, from Istanbul, where my mission is to find a shop that sells yarn for a knitting project.  Believe we will be in port there for two days prior to heading up into the Black Sea.

Here’s an addendum to yesterday’s journal, while still in Canakkale.

We had a lazy afternoon – so what else is new!    Suddenly we heard rumbling, and noticed the sky had darkened considerably.   In the distance we began to see lightning strikes on the hills across the bay.   We stood on our balcony watching the wonderful heavenly show.   The lightening was really dramatic, coming down out of dark clouds seeming to pierce the ground.   While all of that was going on, there was another drama taking place right beneath us.

Across the narrow pier where we were berthed was space for a small ship.  An old green and rusty, small fuel tanker came lumbering in – it was some sort of vessel that services other ships.  All of the pier personnel came running down to our end to help the newcomer tie up. 

Such a commotion like we’ve never heard.  Because there was wind, and because this old vessel probably didn’t have some of the modern thrusters that can ease a ship into a berth without too much fuss, their attempts were awkward.  So much shouting and gesticulating between those on board and those on the pier.   Really wanted to understand Turkish, but then, perhaps it was a good thing that I did not!

First, she came in bow pointed directly to the pier, but on the wrong side of the corner, then she came in at an angle so that her port side, amid ship, was dead-on to the corner  - more attempts, backing and forthing, with appropriate shouting and gesticulating (no doubt a lot of cursing!), taking turns with the angles of approach – more failures.   Finally she began to edge into the correct side of the pier, but the wind kept pushing the stern in the wrong direction so that at one point, her port side scraped the right angle corner of the pier, with a horrendously loud screech, as metal hit metal.  She was stuck!

One young man from the pier brigade decided he should help.   Put two hands on the ship’s sides and digging in his feet, began to push.   He was actually almost in a horizontal position at this point, so that if the ship had budged a bit, he would have gone into the drink.

It was at this point that I began laughing – even though it wasn’t funny for those involved.  This endeavor really should have been filmed, but we were having too much fun watching, to think about our cameras.

Nothing was really working, so enter a very small barge, with a big round rubber gizmo on the bow.   It got fairly close to the side, near the back end of the ship, revved its motor, and tore through the water heading for the ship.  BONK!!!!  The ship barely moved.   This went on for about six more tries, while a rather large barge that could probably have done the job quickly and without all the fuss, stood by.   BONK!   BONK!  BONK!   Finally, the ship began to align itself with the side of the pier and started to get into position, whereby, everyone began shouting once again, because there was obviously dissension as to which ropes should be used.

The ship finally managed to be in position, get tied up, and not any too soon, for the rains arrived and we were deluged!

By the time we left the port of Canakkale, the storm had mostly passed.   We decided to go up to the Colonnade for dinner, and when we got there, noticed that there was sun on the outside veranda.   We had a delightful Japanese dinner, out on the back deck, watching the sun sink into the storm clouds remaining on the horizon.

May 18, 2012 – Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul is the largest city in Turkey, forming the country’s economic, cultural, and historical heart.  With a population of 13.4 million, the city is at the center of the second largest urban area in Europe and among the world’s largest cities by population within city limits.   The city straddles the Bosphorus – one side being in Asia, the other in Europe, and connected by a long bridge. 

Founded around 660 BC as Byzantium on the Seraglio Point, the city now known as Istanbul developed to become one of the most significant cities in history.  For nearly sixteen centuries following its reestablishment as Constantinople in 330 AD, it served as the capital of four empires – the late classical Roman Empire (330 – 395), the Eastern Roman (“Byzantine”) Empire (395 – 1204 and 1261 – 1453), the Latin Empire (1204 – 1261), and the Ottoman Empire (1453 – 1922).  It was instrumental in the advancement of Christianity during Roman and Byzantine times, before the Ottomans conquered the city in 1453 and transformed the city into an Islamic stronghold from which the last caliphate ruled.  Although the Republic of Turkey established its capital elsewhere, in Ankara, remnants of Istanbul’s previous central role still remain highly visible across the city, with palaces and imperial mosques lining its hills.  Istanbul’s strategic position along the historic Silk Road, rail networks to Europe and the Middle East, and the only sea route between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean have helped foster an eclectic populace, although less so since the establishment of the Republic.

Whenever we come into this harbor (two times previously), I am reminded of my grandmother, Nona Piccina, her big house out in the Bayview district of San Francisco, where on holidays all the grandchildren would gather in one of the back rooms.  There, in a particular back room, stood an old, tall victrola, one we had to hand crank to make music, and a stack of old records.   We used to play them by the hour, especially the one called “C-O-N-S-T-A-N-T-I-N-O-P-L-E”.  I will be happy to sing it for you when I return!!!  However, for the life of me, can only remember the opening line!

We got off the boat this morning, to be greeted by a frigid wind – very cold – looks like rain.   Decided to get back on the boat.   We will be here for a day and a half in seven days after our Black Sea adventure.   On that return trip, am going to the Grand Bazaar.

Today we are hanging out on the boat, catching up on journal, needlepointing, reading – and yes, of course, napping.  

Speaking of needlepointing, I came back to our cabin a few days ago to find three kits for needlepoint pillows on our bed, together with a lovely note from the cruise director, Handre.   We’d been speaking about my projects on board, and the fact that I’d almost finished the five ornaments brought with me, so I had to find a yarn store to get back to my knitting.   Have no idea where he got these kits, complete with thread, but were I to tackle them all, would be working on these projects for a couple of years!   Have spoken with him, thanked him profusely, am keeping one and returning the other two so he can make another passenger happy.   Wasn’t that a nice gesture? He’s a lovely young man, very thoughtful.

This harbor is so very interesting.   From the boat we can see the bridge connecting Asian Istanbul to European Istanbul, Topkapi Palace, the Blue Mosque, Aya Sofia, and so much more.  Really surprising are the numerous ferries that cross all day long, in front of and behind huge liners, oil tankers and various other huge ships coming through the Bosphorus.   No one seems to give way, but all traffic continues just like it’s done for years and years.   The one thing that I think about here is security.   All kinds of little boats come past, up to, and around the Seabourn Quest.   Having been on Seabourn vessels other times, I know security is on its proverbial toes, but it does cause some serious thought.

There are 410 new passengers coming on here in Istanbul, and 180 are from Mexico.  This is the largest contingent of Mexicans we’ve ever traveled with – already there is chatter among the few “stay-aboards”, that Spanish will be the language of the next seven days.

Heard the Muzzein (sp?), the Moslem call to prayer, sound off again while we were eating lunch on the back deck – again a computer generated recording, with all hundred or so minarets throughout the city singing (if you can call it that!) something different – a true cacophony – but have gotten into the habit of saying a quick Hail Mary and an Our Father.   Know it’s not what Moslem’s think is ideal, but then am not a Moslem!! 

More later . . .

Well, tonight we begin anew, sitting at tables where we meet the newly arrived.   It was interesting!   A couple from Britain who started out okay but ended up at the other end of the spectrum, and an Aussie couple, totally interesting and charming – this evening’s cast of characters.  I’d been speaking with the Brit and hearing lots about his travel history – 120 cruises in all, every single one first class, the best ships, and on and on.  They’d brought five cases for one week, because in their culture, one never wears the same clothing twice.  His wife never smiled, never spoke – unless and until he told her to tell us something, and then she grudgingly spoke.   Tried really hard to gentle this man, be interested – it was difficult, because there wasn’t one part of him that was attractive.  He was very portly and flabby, had white hair, wore a short sleeved, white transparent shirt (didn’t have sense enough to wear an undershirt!) which he’d purposely left unbuttoned at the top three buttons so that white chest hairs were visible  (only things missing were some gold chains!)– and as if this wasn’t enough, he had on red pants.   When dessert arrived, thought it was about time that I invest some time in the Aussie couple to whom Adolfo had been chatting, and with my sudden lack of attention, the Brit announced – “Well, since your attention has turned toward Barry, we are leaving”!

As the Brits left table, Margaret, the Aussie woman gave a slight but visible shudder and said:  “Isn’t he a horrible man!”  I liked her immediately.    Barry and Margaret Maitland live in Australia in the wine country outside of Sydney - totally wonderful, easy company.   He is a retired architect, a published mystery writer, and I’m anxious to find some of his books when we get home.   There’s nothing on audible.com as I’ve already checked.

May 19, 2012 – Nessebar (or Nessebur), Bulgaria

Nessebar, is an ancient town and one of the major seaside resorts on the Bulgarian Black Sea Coast, located in Burgas Province.  It is the administrative center of the homonymous Nessebar Municipality.   Often referred to as the “Pearl of the Black Sea” and “Bulgaria’s Dubrovnik”, Nessebar is a rich city-museum defined by more than three millennia of ever-changing history.  It is one of the most prominent tourist destinations and seaports on the Black Sea, in what has become a popular area with several large resorts – the largest, Sunny Beach, is situated immediately to the north of Nessebar.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY to my brother, Ray!!!

Weather is cold and grim again today and there is promised rain some time today. After reviewing all of the tour options, we decided not to do any, except that I really was interested in the Bulgarian cooking class – to which Adolfo responded that he would also go!   So this morning we are off to visit St. Stefan’s church, and then on to a restaurant kitchen where we will help prepare our Bulgarian lunch under the guidance of a local chef.

As I sit here in Seabourn Square finishing up my skinny latte and bran muffin, notice that the usual calm of my morning haven has changed.   There are excited groups of Spanish speaking people everywhere, some very dramatic, some even shouting with happiness!   This week should be most interesting.

I’m off to prep for my cooking class – more later  . . .

Well, I rated cooking class as just “okay”.   We didn’t help with the cooking, just watched a Bulgarian chef speak in Bulgarian, as she cooked, and the guide translated.  Food is heavy with lots of rich yogurts.   Got a few good ideas, one being a salad called “Shopska” – includes yogurt, fresh cucumbers, tomatoes, something else that I forgot, and a bit of dill.

Also an interesting dessert which involved a yogurt that is strained through cheesecloth, making the yogurt almost like a ricotta cheese, which is served like an ice cream scoop, over which a fruit jam is spooned.   Today’s fruit jam was a delicious green fig concoction, but there were none of the usual fig seeds in it.  Appeared that only the skin portions of the fig were used. 

Have you ever eaten raw beets?  Before today I’d never tasted raw beets, but that will be on my “try” list when I get back to cooking.  The beets are peeled and shredded, then some sort of bland dressing is put on them and they marinate.  Am thinking that those raw shredded beets might be tasty in a bit of olive oil and balsamic vinegar.

Didn’t like the preparation and final dish that involved bits of pork tenderloin.  The meat was tasteless and tough as nails!   And, Bulgarian wine, at least the red and white we tasted today, are truly awful!

We tendered ashore today, in very rough seas, got knocked about a bit.   Wind blew and rains poured down from the heavens.   We were handed plastic ponchos that I added over my own raincoat.   The wind was so strong that it blew the whole poncho over my head and blinded me.   Could barely see where I was walking and couldn’t get the voluminous plastic away from my face – the wind fought me every minute.

When we got away from the sea, it was a bit better.   At least we could enjoy the charming town of Nessebar and the beautiful ruins with the wind abating and the rain just a drizzle.   We visited church ruins from the 11th, 9th, and 5thCenturies.  The use of brick and stone in these building creates intricate designs.   Even hundreds of years old, the patterns are lovely.  

Wooden houses were traditional to the area.   Many years ago when houses were built entirely of wood, if residents didn’t pay their taxes, burning torches would be flung into the wooden houses and non-taxpaying residents would lose everything.  It was then decided to make the first story stone!

Difficult walking today for Adolfo over uneven cobblestone streets and lots of steps. After lunch we carefully made our way back to the ship – again in the rain.

Tonight we were invited once again to the table of the Cruise Director, Handre Poitgeiter.  He’d had old friends join the ship at Istanbul, and thought we should get to know each other.   We had a wonderful evening - so much laughter and genuine fun.  My dinner partner, Ed, is the former Chairman of Deloite & Touche (sp?), and is currently on the board of five major NYSE companies – fascinating guy.   His wife, Cathy, has a skincare company, the products of which she sells internationally on QVC.  She’s a hoot!   Think the product name is Pria – not certain.

They are traveling with her mother and father, Brits who now reside on the east coast of the USA, in Connecticut and Florida.   Can’t wait to spend more time with these lovely people.  They have a connection with a jeweler on Santorini (we are going there again), and want us to join them to visit “Nick the Greek”.   Adolfo just rolled his eyes!! 

Guess I should send this off.    It’s 6:30 a.m. on Sunday, May 20.   Should be getting up and heading for my latte and muffin.  We have a tour scheduled this morning in Constanta, Romania.  Just getting ready to dock amid the whole Roumanian Navy.  Adolfo is out on the balcony in his pajamas, taking photos!

May 20, 2012 – Constanta, Romania

Constanta is the oldest extant city in Romania, founded around 600 BC, and located in the Dobruja region of Romania, on the Black Sea coast.  It is the capital of Constanta Coumty and the largest city in the region.  This city is one of the most important in Romania, one of four roughly equal-size cities which rank after Bucharest.  The Constanta metropolitan area, founded in 2007, comprises 14 localities located at a maximum distance of 19 miles from the city and with approximately 400,000 inhabitants.   It is the third largest metropolitan area in Romania.

This day will be most difficult to convey in writing - the experience can best be described by the color “gray” – from skies to earth.  

Constanta is 23 years away from the Communist regime and the rule of Ceausescu, yet I cannot imagine why this place is looking so depressed.   No one smiles, the buildings are crumbling, roof tiles are missing in huge bunches, most gardens and parkways are untended, and everything needs a fresh coat of paint – that is, after the stucco is repaired.  

Because we’d not been here before, we decided to take an organized tour which started out on a bus from the pier and wound through old streets with dilapidated buildings to the Archeological Museum and Roman Mosaics (also dilapidated), which are adjacent to each other.

First stop was the Roman Mosaics, once some sort of forum, where a housing has been built over the forum to protect it.  This protection must have been built quite some time ago, and then forgotten.  There are cracked windows that have been taped with some sort of clear adhesive, open broken holes in the panes of glass, and I don’t believe the windows have been washed since they were installed and are definitely old because they have that wavy, uneven look of old glass – unless this was the “quality” in the Soviet Union.

Once in the building, there is a broad walkway which circles around the open center where one can view what is left of the Roman mosaics below.   They must have been magnificent at one time, but the colors have faded, and some areas look as though they’ve been washed with muddy water and left to dry that way.   There were old pots which were put together from gathering ancient fragments, and this was done with particular artistry.   One really got a sense of the beauty of these old containers.

Around this building outside are ruins of ancient buildings, and the whole of this area looks out onto a harbor filled with cranes and davits that are idle.  When I say “filled with cranes” I really mean as far as the eye can see – but there is no action!  After writing this last sentence I do have to mention that today is Sunday, and that might be the reason for the inactivity.

Then we went next door to the museum that began upstairs with Neolithic period, and then to the lower floor for more modern antiquities – some really beautiful old glass pieces, very lovely.

Back on to the bus and we headed to the resort at Mamiya.  To get there we got on a cable car, dangling over the very long beach and were able to see the entire “resort” from the air.   By this time it was spritzing a bit from the gray clouds overhead – but never got into a real downpour.

The resort is filled with hotels, restaurants, a casino, large water park, miles of beautiful beach on one side facing the Black Sea, a fresh water lake on the other side of the boardwalk, traditional lawned and forested park where many congregate in summer months to relieve themselves from the heat, and a sort of boardwalk area, where we alit, and began our walk back to the bus.   After a bit of a walk the guide pointed out where the bus would be waiting, and told us we’d have an hour here, to which there was a unanimous  and rather raucous “NO”!!!  We wanted to go back to the ship.   I know it sounds a bit rude, but let me describe the boardwalk.

Picture this – it is the beginning of the summer season, although the season doesn’t really begin until June 15 when the children get out of school.   There is an assortment of cafés and restaurants, most of which are not yet open.  There are shops, most of which are not open, and those that are open feature clothing and knickknacks one might find in the poorest of third world countries.  The shopkeepers standing in the doorways look totally bored – the ennui is catchy!  We could have walked on the beach, had the weather been better, but this was not an option.

So we did go back to the ship, were so happy to be back on board – and that was our day in Constanta!  Am not anxious to return.

May 21, 2012 – Odessa, Ukraine

Odessa is the administrative center of the Odessa Oblast (province) located in southern Ukraine.  The city is a major seaport located on the shore of the Black Sea and the fourth largest city in Ukraine with a population of 1,029,000 (as of the 2001 census).  Odessa was founded by Ottoman vassal, Khadjibey, the Khan of Crimea in 1240 and named after him.  It passed into the domain of the Ottoman sultan in 1529 and remained in Ottoman hands until the Ottoman Empire’s defeat in the Russo-Turkish War of 1798.  The Russians renamed the city Odessa in 1794.  From, 1819-1858, Odessa was a free port.

During the Soviet period it was the most important port of trade in the Soviet Union and a Soviet naval base.  On January 1, 2000 the Quarantine Pier of Odessa trade seaport was declared a free port and free economic zone for a term of 25 years.  In the 19th century it was the fourth largest city of Imperial Russia, after Moscow, Saint Petersburg, and Warsaw. 

Its historical architecture has a style more Mediterranean than Russian, having been heavily influenced by French and Italian Styles.  Some buildings are built in a mixture of different styles including Art Nouveau, Renaissance and Classicist.

We’ve been to Odessa before, 15 years ago, with Michelle.   Thinking about that jaunt as we come into the harbor this morning.  Liked Odessa, and like it even more (from a tourist standpoint) today.   Adolfo has taken one look at the Potemkin Steps and decided that he’ll stay on board – he’s tired after the last two days.

Have decided that I must climb the Potemkin Steps (didn’t do that last time!), so am off this morning, map in hand and counting steps.   The terminal we must enter and exit to get to the outside of the pier has stairs every which way  - first up a full flight and then down, and then out and then into the underground so that I can cross the busy street, and then I am there – the Potemkin Steps.  I look up – oh my – daunting!

I begin my climb, and stop a couple of times, presumably to take in the view – HAH! – catching my breath is more like it!– 192 steps later, am at the top and the city of Odessa is before me.  Out comes the map and I plot my course.   I want to get to a huge building that I’ve been told has local handicrafts.

So leaving the statue of Potemkin at the top of the steps I set out down Eterininskaya Street toward Victory Square where there’s a huge monument that is surrounded by statuary and depicts the Duke de Richelieu but looks just like George Washington, even down to the wig GW wore.  Circled around the square, walking the Sebaneev Bridge, which had another busy road crossing underneath it, turned left at Voenny Spusk, then through the Odessa City Garden, and over to a beautiful building with a very ornate galleria where handicraft shops are located – it is called Passazh.    You might wonder why I’ve put in all of these complicated names, but had to let you know what I was reading on the map, and then let you know that all of the street names on the corners are written in cyillic – which I can’t read!   So if the road on the map turned left, I turned left, etc.

The handicraft galleria turned out to be very beautiful, but stores inside had nothing unusual, so just took pictures of the building.   What I did notice is that the city seems to have a resurgence of crocheting.   There are many clothes featured along the way that are either completely crocheted, or have edging, collar, or shawl.

On the way I’d found a beautiful, small and very old Catholic Church, St. Peter’s.  I’d promised a friend that I’d light a candle for a special intention, but no candles!   So had a few quiet moments and prayed for a good outcome, then got back on my way.

I was two or three huge blocks away from some other pretty monuments when I remembered that I had to walk back, so decided to forego the rest.  Tried to take another route back to the ship.  Had to stop a few times to ask shopkeepers to please show me on my map,  “What am I?”.   This was difficult, because no one spoke English, so I would put out my hands, point to ground, and then point to the map.   Both times I was shown the correct way to go, with a nice smile.

The shops in Odessa are quite wonderful.   Along with the usual “stuff”, there are high-end designer clothing stores, jewelry stores, exceptional furs displayed in windows, and tons of cafes lining the streets.   Hundreds of chairs where one can sip coffee, a drink, have a meal and visit.   And, of course, there’s the ever present McDonald’s!!  This place definitely looks prosperous. 

We found out later that there is nothing, including services, that you cannot “buy” in Odessa - if you wish to get to a doctor quickly, get to the head of a line, and the like.  Apparently the city government is very corrupt.

When I got to the top of the Potemkin Steps there were several young men there with falcons and pretty white doves on their arms.   The falcons were really huge, and the men holding them didn’t have on any leather gloves, so the birds’ talons were just on bare skin – that’s brave!

Didn’t have to count the steps on the way down, so did a couple of decates of the Rosary.   Decided that when I reached the bottom, I would also add up the stairs up and down to get back to the ship.  The total, including the Potemkin steps is 325 – times 2 - going and coming.    I did 650 steps!   When I finally got to the ship, also walked up from Deck 3 to Deck 7, that four more flights that I did not count!

I was very proud of myself today, going ashore all by myself.  The whole trip took me about two hours, didn’t get too lost, didn’t trip and fall, and made it back to the ship safe and sound - just a sore old lady!   It was time for two extra Aleve!

We had a Chef’s Dinner tonight, with many courses that included caviar, gravlax, white plum tomato soup, potato and ricotta ravioli, orange and Campari sorbet, Seabass or Tournedo Rossini, dessert and plenty of wine – there’s always plenty of wine!

Am fighting a sore throat, so begin tonight to take a Remy Martin brandy to my room and have just a bit of it prior to going to sleep.  It’s working!   At least, if the bad throat continues to develop – I won’t care!

May 22, 2012 – Yalta, Ukraine

Yalta, a city in Crimea, southern Ukraine, on the north coast of the Black Sea is located on the site of an ancient Greek colony, said to have been founded by Greek sailors who were looking for a safe shore on which to land.  It is situated on a deep bay facing south towards the Black Sea surrounded by wooded mountains, and enjoys a warm Mediterranean climate with may vineyards and orchards in the vicinity.

The term “The Greater Yalta” is used to designate a part of the Crimean southern coast spanning from Foros in the west to Gurzuf in the east and including the city of Yalta and multiple adjacent urban settlements.   During the 20th century, Yalta was the principal holiday resort of the Soviet Union.  In 1920, Lenin issues a decree “On the Use of Crimea for the Medical Treatment of the Working People” which endorsed the region’s transformation from a fairly exclusive resort area into a recreation facility for tired proletarians.

Numerous workers’ sanatoria were constructed in and around Yalta.  There were, in fact, few other places that Soviet citizens could come for a seaside holiday, as foreign travel was forbidden to all but a few.  The soviet elite also came to Yalta.  Soviet dictator Stalin used the Massandra Palace as his summer residence.  The town came to worldwide attention in 1945 when the Yalta Conference between the “Big Three” powers – the Soviet Union, the United States and the United Kingdom – was held at the Livadia Palace.

We’d also been to this port fifteen years ago and had seen all of the important things, so we decided to have an easy day.   The weather today is beautiful, warm and sunny.   Adolfo and I set out to walk along the huge esplanade on the waterfront.   Coming out of the passport control, which no one was controlling, we had to run the gauntlet of taxi drivers who persist and persist and persist.   And, we kept saying “no”, “no”, “no”!!!

Of course, here too, there’s a huge McDonald’s along with the usual cafes and beachfront stores.   In one area on our walk we came across several very ornate, gilded chairs, more like thrones, in front of which was a wide assortment of costumes from old Russian times.  It’s for taking photos.   You choose the costume and the seat you wish, and buy the photo!

One street up from the esplanade was a large shopping area that included clothing by Galliano, Lagerfeld, all sort of new Italian designers, and too many more to mention.   Luckily, I could not be tempted because we took our walk prior to the stores opening.   But the windows held really lovely clothing.

There is much new construction here in Yalta, some very modern buildings, apartment houses and hotels.   The people look so much happier than they did 15 years ago, and we didn’t see one beggar.   Fifteen years ago, the memory of beggars, and terrible borscht soup is what stands out for me.   The soup looked like dirty dishwater and tasted worse!  This area now appears to be thriving.  The locals laugh and shop and seem to have purpose.

Think that will wind up this episode.   Will try to get it sent off this afternoon.   Now it’s time for lunch.

May 23, 2012 – Sinop, Turkey

Sinop is a city with a population of 36,734 on Ince Burun (Inceburun, Cape Incel), situated on the northern edge of the Turkish side of the Black Sea coast, in the acient region of Paphlagonia, in modern-day northern Turkey, historically known as Sinope.  It is the capital of Sinop Province.

We arrived fairly early, to a very old city, with a pretty port, and dramatic mountains rising behind the town of Sinop.  Craggy rocky peaks, sporadically populated by lush forest, and topped off by dramatic clouds edging out toward the ship, and soon pouring rain on us.

We planned an interesting morning, meeting the head chef, Niels Rathert, for a visit to local markets.   While he’d hoped to be able to walk to and from, the weather, and investigation that it might be quite a jaunt, changed his mind.   The port agent had a van waiting for him and the six guests that wanted to accompany Chef Niels, plus John, a sous chef, who was along “to carry the bags”!!

Donning disposable plastic ponchos, off we went, up and down tiny streets in this old town, until we came to a huge building, except for a roof.   Trucks could drive right into the area which had two large purveyors of fresh fruits and vegetables at one end.   Beautiful vegetables arranged side by side – several varieties of string beans, long skinny eggplants, several varieties of tomatoes from super large to very tiny, small green sour plums, green garlic, huge lettuces and so much more.

Chef Niels has a lovely way with the local people, is full of fun, but knows how to bargain and how to pick fresh produce.  At this stop, we came away with three large lugs of very sweet smallish apricots and a huge lug of red cherries.   Then we piled back into the van and road to the fish market.

With the Sinop’s location here on Black Sea, fish markets are always full of wonderful products.   We got off the van and walked a block or two checking out different vendors to find the best.   It was one of the largest purveyors, several of the men there spoke excellent English, and Chef Niels gave us all a lesson on how to buy fresh fish.  First, you must look the fish in the eye to be certain that the eye is clear.   If it begins to look cloudy, then it’s been around too long.   Second, you should sniff the air.  If there is a fishy smell, then the fish market doesn’t carry fresh product.   And third, slightly compress the body of the fish with the pad of one finger.   If the finger leaves an impression and the fish flesh doesn’t spring right back, then the fish is old.

This market had hundreds of fish, every size and species you can imagine, all caught in local waters, all arrayed in ice for perusal by the customers, and more within a walk-in refrigerator.   Fresh fish were arriving all the while “we” were deciding what to buy.   We ended up with fresh sardines, sea bream, another small fish double the size of the sardines – I cannot for the life of me remember the total order, but do know that it was to be delivered to the ship within the hour, and that Chef Niels had spent hundreds of dollars!

While we waited, the owners served us all very strong sweet tea, as we huddled under the awning while it continued to rain.   Across the street, Chef Niels spotted a bakery and after a few minutes came back to us with warm, fairly large buns and offered us each a share.   They were delicious, soft warm bread filled with different things like a black olive spread, cinnamon and nuts, some with a meat spread – all very tasty!

While we drank tea and visited with each other, got a chance to catch up with the couple who got mugged in Constanta.   They are lovely, took it all very philosophically, and are happy they didn’t get hurt.  The other couple with us are the Drs. Rosen-something – can’t remember.   One is a Ph.D, that’s Romen and the wife, Nadia, is an internist.   They live in Massachusetts.   Got to hear her story while we drank tea and in a shortened form, here it is.

In 1979, they lived in the USSR, were married and had two boys aged 9 and 12.  She could no longer stand the oppression and general horrible treatment to Russian Jews, so made the decision to immigrate to America.  Their extended families were to remain there.  Leaving Russia at that time, particularly if you educated and accomplished, was no easy task.   Believe that era is often referred to as “Brain Drain” in the USSR.   Even if the Russians didn’t love you, they didn’t want your talents to go elsewhere.  

At any rate, they finally got papers for the four of them to come to the USA.   It was then that Romen was tossed into jail at the railway station.   Don’t know for how long, or for what reason, but get the idea that the Russians didn’t need any bona fide reasons.   The four of them finally did arrive in the United States, with $90 in cash – and that’s all.

Within the next five years, Nadia had retaken her medical examinations toward getting her MD license in America, received an internship and in 1985 joined a group of eight doctors.   That medical practice now numbers 80 physicians.  Nadia refers to this as the true American Dream experience.

Hard work, perseverance, careful management of funds, a focus on education for their boys, and it is a success story.   They are lovely people, he’s very naughty (everything he says has a double entendre), she very beautiful – they’re both very Russian (and entirely American!) and sang a beautiful song in Russian while we were in the van.   What a fabulous experience.

Then the Chef disappeared for a bit, thought he was negotiating with the owners on the price, but later realized that he gone off and bought a huge wheel of fresh sweet feta, tons of home cured olives - then we were back to the van and back to the ship.   The whole trip had taken about two hours.   Thought we’d probably see these products at dinner.

But no, within an hour and a half in the Colonnade dining room up on deck 8, three kinds of fish were arrayed, light fried and ready for eating.   The wheel of feta, was surrounded by all of the olives, and the guests were going crazy over it all!  At dinner, the sea bream had been filleted and was offered as an entrée.

Later, we put together a table for six during the cocktail hour in The Club.   Two people we’d dined with before – a couple from Los Angeles.   The other couple have been traveling with us for three weeks, and we’d just started to visit with them for coffee in the mornings.  They are Susan and Louis from Connecticut.   They, too, had a wonderful story.   They, too, came from families of Russian Jews.

Her family left Russia some time in the early 1900’s and when they got to the sea to catch a boat for their destination, found that it was impossible for them to gain entry to the USA.  The father then asked what was the closest he could get to our country.  The answer was Cuba!   So off they sailed to Cuba, where Papa established a business – can’t remember what it was – and eventually sent for other members of their family.

At some point Papa needed more of a challenge, so moved the entire family to the area of the Panama Canal.   He sold uniforms there to the military.   When he made a success of that, he moved the family to Caracas, Venezuela, where again he established a successful business.   Sometime during this era, one of the sons who was to be Susan’s father, traveled to New York on business, met a beautiful Jewish girl who was the executive secretary to the head of the business where he visited.  He asked he boss to please intercede for him and ask the secretary if she’d go out with him.   She acquiesced, and three weeks later they were married and moved to wherever the family was at that time.  I may have the places reversed, but it was either Panama or Caracas.

Eventually, Sue’s Mama wanted to come back to the US, to the east coast.   Believe most of the extended family also joined them there.  Here comes another American Dream story.   As they made money, whenever they had enough to buy a piece of property, they would add another asset to the “family business”.   The property was usually residential, and the some members of the family would take the first few floors.

But here there’s a twist.   As Sue’s generation was born and grew up, they assumed they would be taken in to the family business.  The father denied them that access, saying that they would all be educated to practice a profession – that they must be self-sustaining and not depend on what had gone before.   As a result, all of that generation is very well educated, with a variety of medical, dental and financial training and practical experience in the working world, and each a success on their own.

Sue assured us that her father was not really harsh, that he did them all a favor, and along with his edict, made certain that all grandchildren had healthy trust funds!

As if this wasn’t enough of a story, Sue explained that she handles all of the financials in their home, runs her husband’s dental business – that was her field of expertise.   Recently, when she was having some vision and ear problems, the diagnosis revealed that she had a huge tumor growing in her brain, and had about ten days to live!!!   She told the doctor she needed three days to do their taxes and then to please schedule their surgery on the fourth day.   She’d be there bright and early!   Doctor obeyed and she was there and surgery was successful.

Currently, Sue is having more problems, and the doctor told her prior to this trip that another tumor is growing.   She tells this all with such humor (how does she do that?!?!), is grateful for every day she’s had and will have.   Her children are calling her every day telling her to get herself home right now!   She just laughs and replies that she will when the time is right!    If you have a minute, please send up a prayer or two for this valiant, funny, interesting woman.

I sometimes forget that To Celebrate Life Breast Cancer Foundation doesn’t have the  exclusive on valiant, funny, interesting women.   They are everywhere!

So today, we had a theme – Russian Jews – I feel so much richer for the experience!

May 24, 2012 – Istanbul, Turkey

Istanbul is hot.  And we’re not talking about the weather.  These days, there are more happening restaurants, bars, galleries and clubs around town than there are exquisite Ottoman mosques (and that’s a lot!).  The international fashion and design press have been talking up Istanbul ad nauseam, but the most significant thing about the accolade “World’s Hippest City’ is that Istanbullans themselves have come to believe it.  The creeping sense of decrepitude that has fallen like a pall over their one-all-powerful hometown has vanished, replaced by a sense of energy and innovation not seen since the days of Suleyman the Magnificent.

The city’s over-abundance of important historic buildings and exciting new art galleries and museums provides visitors with more than enough to see and do during the day, but it’s at night that the place swings into high-velocity mega-stylish action.  Locals are flocking to see and be seen at an ever-growing array of bars, clubs and restaurants, bringing with them an infectious sense of joie de vivre and a discerning ability to judge these places on their standard of service, drinks, music, and food, as well as their position in the what’s-hot-and-what’s-not stakes.

That’s not to say that the locals are turning their backs on much-loved city institutions such as the raki-soaked meyhane (tavern) or tranquil cay bahcesi  (tea garden), because they wouldn’t dream of doing anything so foolish.  They know, after all, that such institutions are one of the reasons that their home is – and always has been – rightfully dubbed the “City of the World’s Desire”.

The ship sailed all night and all morning to enter the beautiful Bosphorus on a slightly breezy, but beautiful day, and then arrive in Istanbul at 1:00 this afternoon.  We will remain here until tomorrow, early evening, when we once again sail for the Greek Islands.   Most of the passengers will be getting off here tomorrow, and new passengers getting on.

This past week, Istanbul to Istanbul traveling the Black Sea, from a passengers standpoint has been quite different than our usual cruises.   With nearly half the passengers on a special charter trip, the group has been slightly polarized, and that’s not for wont of trying.  Most everyone in the Mexican group did not mingle.   They’d pretend not to notice if you encouraged them to join your table for lunch out on deck and many refused to acknowledge a cheery “good morning”, with more than a curt nod.  And those few who will join your table, talk only to each other – in Spanish.  It is my understanding that everyone in this group is with a very large company in Mexico City, so would assume that basic English might be understood.   Perhaps I’m being too harsh – if so, I apologize!  At any rate, we’re hoping for the usual homogenous group going forward.

Today with our entry into the Bosphorus, a band played on the pool deck as we munched on a delicious lunch, and of course, there was a new cocktail of the day, on which I usually pass, but today it sounded good – so I had TWO!  The drink was called Turkish Delight and contained lemonade (innocent enough), a splash of grenadine (also innocent) and a bit of Bacardi Rum (totally deadly!!!) – well maybe the rum was more than “a bit”.   They were so good, that right after lunch I went to the room and fell asleep.

My quest for yarn has been fruitless, so Murat, one of the officers, and from Istanbul, has contacted the ship’s agent.  By tomorrow morning I will have a shop name and address and advice on how to best get there.   Tomorrow I also have the Grand Bazaar ahead of me!   As many times as we’ve been here, have never been brave enough – so tomorrow it’s time!

My telephone service has been restored thanks to son, Stephen – in his explanation email his closing line went something like this:  “Since all cellular phone companies are pond scum, I would recommend you contact . . .  If you would rather bang your head against the wall, I understand.”  So, now that I’ve finished banging my head against the wall and have service once again, will shortly call Mama.   Haven’t spoken with her in a few weeks.

Had a quick visit with Mama via telephone.   She sounds wonderful – connection was pretty good.

May 25, 2012 – Istanbul, Turkey

This morning, there are almost 400 passengers leaving the ship at the end of their cruise, which means that an equal number of new people will be getting on by the end of day.

Do you remember my reference to “horrible man” in an earlier journal?   Well, today he must be on his meds!    He came over to us as we were sitting having coffee and asked if he could join us.  So unbelievably charming – could this man be a twin?!?

I was off to the Grand Bazaar this morning, but didn’t have Turkish lire for the taxi ride and as we were discussing how best to exchange my dollars, he whipped out his wallet and said he had a really supply of lire and would be happy to change my dollars – which he did.   So, “horrible man” is not so horrible any more.

They’d had a wonderful experience the day before and had been able to gain access to the Florence Nightingale Museum which is in the middle of a Turkish military installation.   In order to go there, the ship’s personnel had been working for several days to get the proper papers and clearance.   The FNM is there in Turkey because of her work during the Crimean Wars, where apparently she cared for anyone who was injured – she’s quite a heroine in Turkey.

Came back to Seabourn Square about 30 minutes later, to get a map and began speaking with another couple that I’d not yet met.   In the course of conversation, Jan told me that she was going to the Grand Bazaar.   Told her that I was, as well, would she like to share a taxi?   She also thought that a good idea, so we were off.

Funny conversations and negotiating of fares for the cab – we asked the cab agent for a price to the bazaar and he quoted us 15 lire.   Then we got to the cab driver and asked him to confirm, and he said absolutely not, but that the fare was 35 lire.  This went on for several back and forth conversations, and finally we just gave up and got in the cab!   When we arrived at the Grand Bazaar, we handed the taxi driver 35 lire and he said that was too much and handed us back 20 lire!   So, it was 15 lire!   So confusing!

Off we marched, Jan and I, into the fray.   Believe this GB takes up 3 acres, with shop upon shop selling every sort of thing you can imagine, from yucky stuff, to really nice stuff.  Right away, Jan found two wonderful gold charms for her granddaughters and then some Turkish slippers with the turned up toes.   I looked at everything, and of course, I bought two shawls – one is beautiful black wool, all over embroidered, and the other 100% silk woven in a pretty Persian pattern in soft pinks and beiges.

There is one very long paved street (or walkway) within the bazaar that is dedicated to fine jewelry.   You’ve never seen so many diamonds and gem stores in one place.   Stores that are not decorating their windows in gems, are decorating in gold in the tradition of the Dubai Gold Market.   There will be a bar across the window with 30 of the same bracelets side by side, and then another bar below that, repeating the scenario, so that everywhere you look you are bedazzled by sparkling gold and gems.  It is rather overwhelming.    And everywhere you go you get the same wonderful questions whispered in your ear:

*  Madame, where are you from?  And if you answer with a city in the US, everyone has a cousin living there, knows a restaurant (and they have names!), or has been there.

            *  Madame, please come in to my shop!

*  Madame, you need a beautiful handbag.  (actually my own was not so special!  It’s beginning to look a bit tired.)

*  Madame, you really need a carpet.  I have the most beautiful carpets, you must come in.  I just want to show you.  

*  Madame, You cannot leave Turkey without a carpet.

By my favorite of all time, in all shopping situations throughout Turkey:

*  Madame, you are the first customer of the day, therefore it will bring me very good luck if I give you very deep discount.   Just to let you know, I’ve been the first customer in every shop I’ve entered this trip.  Makes me rather sad for those poor Turks who’ve waited for their first customer until 3:00 o’clock in the afternoon!!!

Began to ask other shopkeepers where I might buy “ergu” (the Turkish word for yard), was corrected several times regarding my pronunciation!)  It’s the only Turkish word I know!   Finally found a man who would take us, and he began to walk us to the “ergu” store.   A little voice in my ear (Jan’s) told me that he was taking us so that we would feel obligated to come back to his carpet store!   I set him straight immediately.   While I truly appreciated his attention to our dilemma, wanted him to know that neither of us were buying Turkish carpets.   He bowed and pointed us in the right direction – two streets down, turn right and walk until we saw Mamut something – never figured out if it was the name of the street, or the name of the store.   Exited the Grand Bazaar and kept walking.   We were now in the part of the town where the locals shopped, and English speaking was at a premium.   We were also following the outskirts of the spice market, so took some really wonderful photos of huge piles of colorful spices – absolutely beautiful.

Some shopkeepers just totally ignored any inquiry as to an “ergu” store.   Finally stopped at a store where neither woman could speak English – again held out my hands and said “ergu”?   She used her hands to point us in the right direction and then jogged her hands to the left.   So we walked a bit more, looked at the next jog left and noted that there were tons of linen stores.  In my brain that computed to:  linens – thread – textiles - yarn – maybe?   So left we turned and came into a little a little square that held one of the largest “ergu” stores I’d ever seen.   Ergu everywhere – spilling off the shelves, spilling out of bins in front of the store – absolutely yarn heaven.   Started loading up, asking the price and being totally amazed to find some skeins of yarn were as low at 50 cents US$.  Oh my, I could go crazy here, but managed to hold myself back.   Gathered a good size portion, a few of this and a few of that – kept handing to the clerk who then established a pile at the cash register.   When I thought I’d chosen enough, or perhaps too much, the clerk added it up and the total came to 41 Turkish Lire – roughly $20 US.   I was so astounded, that I couldn’t bear to negotiate a better price – felt as though I was already stealing this beautiful yarn.

Many of the yarns I work with at home are from Turkey, so because these products are made here in Turkey the price is very low.   Do wish I’d bought more – I could easily have filled a separate suitcase.  Have already begun a scarf, and although someone has even offered to buy it if the money goes to breast cancer, am going to give it to Cathy, because she generously left a bag of her Prai cosmetics tied to our suite door, for me to try.  Should her promises come to fruition, by the time I get home, no one will know me, for I’ll look as though I’ve discovered the fountain of youth.   Have used the night and eye creams for two nights and can’t see a damned bit of improvement!!

We got back to the ship safely, by taxi, only 7 Turkish Euros on the return, but we had walked part way back.

Then at 4:00, another boat drill for the newbies plus all continuing passengers, so now we’ve attended four boat drills.  In a pinch, I can conduct the drill!!

Our friends, with whom we had so much fun at dinner last week - Cathy, Ed, Marjorie and Roy, were shown around Istanbul by an Ambassador’s wife – don’t know whether it’s a current diplomat or past, but apparently an old friend.   At any rate, they were picked up at the ship by a chauffered car and on their way to a private jewelry vault where they viewed all kinds of treasures.  Jewelry beginning at the five-figure range – very beautiful, but they all thought totally out of reach.  The best part of their day is that they were delivered back to the ship by the local police.   When the cruise director saw them come back via police van, he panicked thinking they’d been arrested, until he saw that all of the policemen were carrying in their packages from an afternoon at the Grand Bazaar.  The Ambassador’s wife made certain that they were taken back to the ship properly!!

We ended our day with a dinner in the company of Sara Ferreira, the planner for future cruises – she really delightful – and were lucky that she’d invited our four friends from the paragraph above to also join her.   So we had another raucous evening where we closed up the dining room.  

One of the choices for the first course at dinner was a Goat Cheese Souffle.   It is really a dish to “die for”!   We all love it.   The waiter heard of speaking about it, and brought everyone but Sara (who’d ordered something else), and then added two more extras to the table.    I think Cathy ate hers plus the two extra.   While I could have joined her, I used great restraint!

Tried my hand at the Blackjack table where I won $100 in ten minutes, put it into my purse and went to hear part of the show - pretty good singing and dancing – and then to bed.

This is a very long portion of my journal.  Didn’t quite know how to edit it down and still let you know how much fun we are having.   If annoying, please delete!!!

Love and hugs to all,

Jeanne