2025 - Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam, The Netherlands on AmaWaterways AmaStella and Paris!!

Wednesday, November 5 - SFO to Basel, Switzerland

Welll . . . there were a few days last week when I thought I wasn’t going to get on the plane.  A really sick cold had me in bed most of last week, lots of blowing and coughing and general malaise.  Spoke with doctor, tested for Covid – negative – just as I’d thought, a truly rotten cold!   The cough is what makes me feel like “Typhoid Mary”.  Should I just wear a sign that I’ve tested negative for Covid?  At any rate, have an inhaler to help me through those coughing bouts, am finally packed (hate packing for winter jaunts – heavy clothing takes up too much room in luggage.  Because we will have a train segment on this trip, am told I must only bring one piece of luggage (plus carry on!)

John, Sandi, Rose and I were driven in from our homes to the airport.   Stephen met us there after a day’s work at the office.  The airport was absolutely deserted.   Have never seen it so empty.   Don’t know if this is because it’s late afternoon, or because of the government shut-down, people are nor traveling.   Finally, all checked in and nicely settled in the British Air lounge with lovely cocktails, lots of food, burgers to order, etc.   This is not half bad.   An actual improvement in our British Air experience so far.  And, because I’m traveling with two of my sons, there is always a pack of cards ready to begin a game of Pedro!

When I made reservations for our flights in business class, figured our seats would be assigned, as usual.  However, was then told that if I wanted early seat assignments, it would cost approximately $160 per seat.  Otherwise, I should wait until 24 hours before flight time, go online, and then choose our seats.   I won’t go through all of the machinations following emailed instructions from British Air but I finally gave up, called my trusted travel agent, Eric Goldring, with an SOS.  Looked as though most seats were already booked, and there were only a few seats left.   Could Eric please purchase our seats, I asked grudgingly, I was ready to pay and not have further confusing instructions.

Forty-five minutes later, Eric called me back to let me know that our seats were already assigned (what?), and there was no extra charge.  So, then, why the email instructions from British Air?    So confusing. Thank you, Eric.

As I write this, we are all on the plane, in our pre-assigned seats.   Some passengers are having dinner, however, it’s almost 10:00 p.m.  I’ve nibbled enough in the lounge, and am happy to be left alone, to drink my water, and hopefully to sleep a bit.   It’s almost ten hours until we reach London Heathrow, where we’ll have a several hour layover before our flight to Basel, Switzerland.

Thursday, November 6, Basel - Switzerland

Basel, Switzerland is a vibrant city on the Rhine River, known for its rich history, stunning medieval old town, world-class museums, and lively cultural scene. It’s a gateway to both France and Germany, offering charming architecture, beautiful river views, and a welcoming atmosphere.

After a five hour lay-over at London Heathrow, we boarded our plane to Basel, which arrived on time. Given the government shutdown in the USA, we were warned that there could be delays and/or cancellations to flights, and that the next day SFO would be cancelling ten percent of all flights.

Our whole day, albeit long, went according to schedule, everything on time. When we claimed our luggage in Basel, we were greeted by our pre-arranged Blacklane driver and whisked off to our beautiful hotel, Les Trois Rois (The Three Kings) - a mere fifteen minutes away. Situate on the River Rhine, its old grandeur tells of a rich history.

We were immediately shown to our rooms and I felt certain that I would soon be asleep, but alas, I lay awake, not knowing that my kids were in the bar downstairs having a wonderful time!!

Friday, November 7 - Basel, Switzerland

We met at 9:00 this morning and with knowledge gained the night before, we set out to a local cafe/tea room where we enjoyed Quiche Lorraine, and an assortment of delicious coffees - a really nice start to this day. The kids then decided to go off and begin their assault on local museums, one for paper, one for toys, another for iron, etc.

I opted to go back to the hotel to see if I could get the Concierge to recommend and make a hair appointment. Am almost two weeks over due for a hair cut and feeling a bit shaggy. He made an appointment for me immediately, just one block away from the hotel. And, voila - I now sit in the hotel bar newly shorn, enjoying a cheese plate, along with a beautiful white Pinot Noir - delicious! Did you know that Pinot Noir came in white?

In this hotel is a three Michelin star restaurant where we will dine tonight. Expect lots of photos of beautiful food.

And then began the food courses and the wine pairings, though I can't remember which wines we had with which courses!!

LES VINS:

Xarello Improvisacio, 2023, Eric Soler Penedes

Pouilly Fuisse Pentacrine, 2022

Domaine Saumaize - Michelin Bourgogne

Les Margues, 2021

Mas-de-l'A, Alfredo Arribas, Priorat

Cornas Vieilles Vignes, Alain Voge, Rhone

Castel Chiuro Valtellina Superiore 2009

Nino Negri, Valtellina

Chateau Doisy Vendrine, 2009, Sauternes Bordeaux

Saturday, November 8 - Boarding AmaStella on the Rhine River

The Rhine River is one of Europe’s most famous waterways, flowing from the Swiss Alps through Germany and the Netherlands to the North Sea. It is renowned for its scenic beauty, historic castles, charming towns, and its vital role in European culture and commerce.

All unpacked, everything put away for two weeks. At 6:00 we attended a briefing on the ship's goings on. During that hour, from 6:00 to 7:00 p.m., all drinks are free. At other times you sign for any alcoholic drinks, except for wine and beer. Those are complimentary. Okay . . . so after I wrote this, we were charged for glasses of wine after dinner in the lounge. Still haven't got the drinks "system" right!!

The stateroom is quite small, I say this laughingly, because for much of my cruising experience these last years, have treated myself to some pretty wonderful accommodations. However, the configuration for the room is well-planned and compact. The bathroom is more than adequate, and in addition there is a small balcony where one can sit outside and watch the shore go by.

Sunday, November 9 - Breisach, Germany

. . . a picturesque town on the banks of the Rhine River, known for its impressive St. Stephen’s Cathedral, charming old town, and beautiful views of the surrounding vineyards. It serves as a gateway to the Black Forest region and offers a blend of German and French cultural influences.

Such a wonderful morning as we all bussed out to the small (well, not so small) town of Colmar whch is situated at the edge of the Alsace wine region. Beautiful half-timbered houses make for such a picturesque town. To add to the unique architecture, the town is readied for Christmas. The whole town looks as though it is a Christmas market and the decor is just beginning. Such fun! These people really love Christmas!

After getting off the bus, John and Steve took off on their own to do a long walk. As soon as we knew the meeting point to go back to the ship, Sandi, Rose and I also peeled off from the tour and meandered in and out of wonderful food and Christmas shops, as we headed toward Little Venice, so named because . . .? Of course, canals, albeit, small canals.

The guys caught up with us as we neared the meeting point to head back to the ship. A perfect morning. Walked about 7,500 steps - by the end of the day we'd easily clocked 10,000 steps. I was tired! After a light lunch on the ship, headed back to my room and rested . . . well, actually fell sound asleep.

Monday, November 10 - Strasbourg, France

. . . a captivating city located on the border with Germany, famous for its stunning Gothic cathedral, charming half-timbered houses, and picturesque canals. As the seat of the European Parliament, it blends French and German cultures, offering a unique mix of history, architecture, and vibrant local cuisine.

Another 10,000 steps day, as John, Sandi and I walked all over Strasbourg. Of main interest was the extremely large and beautiful Cathedral of Notre Dame. It is cold here! John insisted on wearing his usual shorts with hiking boots and just a wind breaker - he's now awaiting a pneumonia diagnosis!

We were given lots of information yesterday, and one thing that I think is of interest is the fact that there is always some sort of restoration going on at this massive edifice. We were told that today's workers are descendants of the original workers who built the cathedral - it has always been so. This is a family endeavor. All of this brings to mind Ken Follett's book, "Pillars of the Earth" - a grand book and one that I might revisit.

Lit three candles here for Adolfo and Christina, and for the special intention of our parish priest. The church is huge, very dark, and in contrast the exquisite stained glass windows are vibrant. Can't imagine how beautiful they would be were the sunshine coming through them, but alas, no sunshine!

Rose and Stephen took off on bicycles, for a not too difficult ride. They stayed in Strasbourg until after dark, so were able to see the city lit up. Some of their photos are wonderful. Here's one courtesy of Rose.

Tuesday, November 11 - Ludwigshafen and Rudesheim, Germany

. . . an industrial city on the Rhine River, best known as the headquarters of BASF, one of the world’s largest chemical companies. The city features modern architecture, green parks, and a lively cultural scene, making it a hub for innovation and industry in the region.

Am tired today. Two full days of walking, so am not going in to Heidelberg where most guests will be heading. Have been there. However, in my head "The Student Prince" music is whirling. I might do a little investigating of Rudolf Friml and Sigmund Romberg on line.

The boys are going on a hike and the girls are off to visit the castle of Heidelberg. It's a wonderful town! We only have the morning here, and will depart at 1:30 p.m. to arrive to arrive a couple of hours later at Rudesheim, and stay there overnight.

Weather has been cold and damp, especially early in the mornings. Sometimes there is thick fog. A bit warmer today by about ten degrees, I think it will be in the mid 50's today.

Arrived Rudeshein around 7:00, had dinner on board and then boarded a "choo-choo train" on wheels to be delivered in town for a famous brandied coffee - decaf - thank goodness! Quite delicious, and then we walked back to the ship, easy and mostly down hill.

Wednesday, November 12 - Rudesheim, Germany

. . . a charming town on the Rhine River, famous for its picturesque vineyards, historic half-timbered houses, and lively Drosselgasse street filled with wine taverns and music. It’s a popular stop for river cruises, offering beautiful views, local Riesling wines, and a welcoming atmosphere.

We have overnighted here in Rudesheim. This morning we will all go to a local music museum (Sigfried's). More on that later. Stephen left us about an hour ago to do a hike by himself. We pray that he's back on board prior to our leaving at 12:30.

We again took the "choo-choo" train up the narrow streets of Rudesheim from the ship to Sigfried's Musical Museum which is filled with self-playing instruments of olden times. The tones are beautiful, the furniture in which the devices reside are beautifully kept and some restored.

This piece was a miracle in engineering, especially the portion that houses six violins. The circular metal piece around the violins acts as the always encircling bow, while air pressure pushes the violin towards the bow to press a string against it. The metal apparatus near the bottom is the fingering mechanism. All notes are played on one center string of each violin. Amazing! There are only sixty of these left in the world. Because they were so large, difficult to move, expensive and complicated to keep tuned, many were trashed and used for fire wood - so sad. Approximate value of this piece is one million euros.

I still have all the cheese I bought in Strasbourg, and hope today that the weather will be good enough for us to go up on deck as we sail through the most famous part of the Rhine River (Rhine Gorge - a UNESCO site). We will see no less than thirty castles. So, it will be a wine, cheese and castle afternoon. After the museum visit we are slated for a wine tasting. Perhaps we will sample something delicious that we can purchase and bring back to the ship.

The weather is really cold and damp today, so rather than go out to the top deck to view all the castles, crew have set up a private place for us in the forward lounge. The cheeses have been turned over to the kitchen, everyone has brought local wine, Eric imparted some information about said wine - we are ready for the castles!

The red and green cheeses are traditional year round in the Alsace region, though I thought at first they might be seasonal, for Christmas. I have no idea what we will do with all the cheese I bought - hoping it can be used on the ship, because there's a ton that was not served today.

I lasted through about twenty castles, and then retired for a nap before dinner. That evening the kids went to the Lahnstein Castle, which was lighted entirely by real candles. Knowing that I figured it was a perfect place for me to slip and fall, so I stayed on the ship.

Thursday, November 13 - Zons (to Cologne) and Dusseldorf, Germany

. . . a vibrant city on the Rhine River, renowned for its modern architecture, lively arts scene, and bustling shopping streets. It’s famous for its historic Altstadt (Old Town), traditional Altbier breweries, and diverse cultural attractions, making it a dynamic destination for visitors.

Ship docked at Zons for one hour while guests depart by bus for a day in Cologne and Dusseldorf. The ship will then depart for Dusseldorf where we will join it.

In 1991 Adolfo and I were in this region, stayed at Oberweisel with friends Carole and John. Our first day we separated and took the boat to Cologne, while Carole and John drove the route. However, after they left us off at the pier, we found that our boat had been cancelled and we had to wait for the next boat. Remember that this was before cell phones. We could only hope that once we did get to Cologne, our friends would be waiting for us. Not so! They couldn't imagine what had happened to us, so they returned to Oberweisel. Instead of going to see the Cathedral at Cologne, we searched for a way to get back. Finally we were on the train heading back to Oberweisel and meeting up with friends - such a mess. So on my list today is a visit to the cathedral. Absolutely wonderful!

Apparently, efforts to clean the cathedral have proven too costly and damaging to the sandstone to continue, so unless a new method is invented, the Cologne Cathedral will continue to be covered with soot and other air pollution particles.

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A highlight for me here was The Treasury in the cathedral basement. It is also the final resting place of the relics of the Magi (The Three Kings).

To Dusselforf by bus where kids went ashore and had a meal there while I napped. Am turning into a champion napper!

Friday, November 14 - Amsterdam, Netherlands

. . . a lively city known for its picturesque canals, historic architecture, world-class museums, and vibrant cultural scene. Famous for its cycling culture, charming neighborhoods, and welcoming atmosphere, Amsterdam offers a unique blend of history, art, and modern urban life.

Arriving Amsterdam today at 2:30 p.m. We plan to go off ship and walk around. Perhaps we'll have our main meal ashore. We enjoyed a beer tasting this afternoon while we were cruising into Amsterdam. I must confess that although the beer tastings are interesting, and the German and Alsace wines are okay, my palate is missing some better (for me!) wines, particularly from California!!

Today it is cold, windy and rainy - we have hit our first rain during this trip. We went out anyway, in our rain gear and waterproof boots, dodging others with their heads down and their umbrellas perched overhead, wary of those umbrella spokes finding our eyes!! Again we saw appearance of Christmas decor and lighting. Pretty! It's a Friday night so there are lots of people out finding their warm and cozy spots for drinks and food.

It was too early for our dinner reservations, so we walked and walked, up one street, down another, dodging bicylists, peeking into brightly lighted store windows featuring all kinds of food, lots of sweets, marijuana, restaurants and bars. We settled on a London Pub for a drink - fun. One table of patrons were having the best time, loudly singing songs and laughing (and it was only 5:00 p.m.!) . . . then donning our already wet coats, we headed out into the rain for our restaurant.

Stamppot is a traditional Dutch dish made from mashed potatoes mixed with one or more cooked vegetables, such as kale, endive, or sauerkraut. It is often served with a smoked sausage (rookworst), bacon, or a meatball, and is a hearty and popular comfort food in Amsterdam, especially during the colder months. It was very "hearty" and delicious!

Tonight with our dinner we had two bottles of really wonderful wines from France - one beautiful red from Pomerol, and a lovely Sancerre. Forgot to photo the labels!

Saturday, November 15 - Amsterdam, Netherlands

Merry Christmas! Overnight, the crew have transformed the ship into a Winter Wonderland - there are lighted wreaths on every stateroom door, Christmas trees, lighted garlands, and Christmas figures everywhere! Santa's elves have worked overtime!

Today we have a full day in Amsterdam. We are doing the ship's tour to the Rijksmuseum, which building was originally a train station, and where I'd hoped to revisit Rembrandt's Night Watch, but alas it is being restored. The five of us will then peel off to visit the Van Gogh Museum where we have purchased in advance our timed tickets. We will then decide what to do with the rest of the day. Our ship is in port overnight once again and will not leave until tomorrow morning.

Oh My Gosh! The kids are trying to wear out my shoes!!! Walked almost four miles today. First we did the Rijksmuseum.

Although I thought we would not see Rembrandt's Night Watch, it was still in place, frame removed, but protected by a heavy glass room, so that viewers could see the restoration in progress. Believe this process will take several years, as the old varnish is removed and original pigments restored and/or recovered.

There were other wonderful paintings to see - so many! Here are a couple of my favorites.

. . . and after a snack in the Museum cafe, we walked over to the Van Gogh Museum. I was excited about this visit. A few months ago, my book club read "The Secret Life of Sunflowers" by Marta Molnar and Dana Marton. This book focused primarily on the marriage of Theo and Jo Van Gogh, Theo's life-long support of his brother Vincent, and after Theo's death one year following Vincent's, Jo's crusade to complete Theo's dream of a museum to house all his brother's body of work. I was happy to see a portion of the permanent exhibit dedicated to Jo Van Gogh. While I don't believe it came to fruition in her lifetime, her work was the foundation for the eventual museum.

Did you know that prior to his death, Vincent sold only one painting?

When we were done museum"ing", the kids took pity on me and we Ubered back to the ship for a short rest prior to going out to walk some more and have dinner in Amsterdam.

Going back to Rudesheim, Rose saw a wonderful faux fur coat that just reached out to her, and it was only 79 Euros - such a bargain! She bought it and decided to wear it tonight - perfect, as it is cold but not raining. John was giving her a hard time about the pretty coat, and telling her it was all for show and probably not at all warm, at which point Rose took it off and told him to wear it for a bit . . . HE DID! A really good look with the hiking boots!

This afternoon and evening, everywhere we walked the air was filled with marijuana - awful stuff - stinks! We had an early dinner at A-Fusion (Asian fusion menu) that was very good. Our first course was delicious, and then the other courses came and we were so intrigued by tastes and smells, that I forgot to take more photos, so here's the one!

Today we walked almost four miles and yesterday over three miles! I am spent!!

Sunday, November 16 - Amsterdam, Netherlands and Utrecht, Netherlands

Utrecht is an historic city known for its beautiful canals, medieval old town, and vibrant student population. The city features unique wharf cellars, impressive churches like the Dom Tower, and a lively cultural scene, making it a charming and dynamic destination in the heart of the Netherlands.

And almost overnight, the Amastella was transformed into a beautiful Christmas ship!!

Decided to stay in today. Before we left Amsterdam, the kids went on a canal sail and when they joined me mid-morning, told me that Stephen had left the ship at 8:30 a.m. and was hiking to our next port - a mere twenty-six miles to Utrecht! What?

John hiked into the city of Utrecht where a Christmas festival was taking place. Father Christmas arrived on horseback! On the way, John helped a local woman fit a bicycle into her car. John said there was little conversation, but lots of laughter as they wrestled with the bike.

On John's return we were visiting in the lounge, he got a phone call, excused himself and hurried out. Came back later with footage of Stephen trekking alongside the river and waving at our boat - that was the phone call - so funny! Have tried to load the video, but no luck.

Rose and Sandi visited the Castle Haar today. It has many stairs and my shoes are not up to it! It's rather fun to blame the shoes and not the aging body! Stephen completed his hike and met them there.

Lovely lady, Isabel Commandeur, entertained us tonight, sang songs from pop to opera - delightful.

Monday, November 17 - Hellevoestluis, Netherlands

How to pronounce? "Hello - 08 - Lewis". That's easy! . . . . or on the boat they say "Hollywood Slice"!!

. . . an historic harbor town located on the Haringvliet estuary. Known for its maritime heritage, charming waterfront, and well-preserved fortifications, it offers a relaxed atmosphere, scenic views, and a glimpse into Dutch naval history.

Another cold day, with some rain spritzes. A wonderful walking tour

Tuesday, November 18 - Ghent, Belgium

. . . a vibrant city known for its medieval architecture, picturesque canals, and lively cultural scene. Highlights include the impressive Gravensteen Castle, the stunning St. Bavo’s Cathedral, and a bustling city center filled with cafes, shops, and historic sites.

Wednesday, November 19 - Brussels, Belgium

. . . the capital city known for its stunning Grand Place, rich history, and diverse architecture. It’s famous for its delicious chocolates, waffles, and vibrant cultural scene, as well as being the administrative center of the European Union.

Dinner tonight in the Chef's Table Restaurant aboard ship.

Thursday, November 20 - Antwerp, Belgium

. . . a dynamic port city renowned for its impressive cathedral, vibrant fashion scene, and historic diamond district. The city features beautiful medieval architecture, lively markets, and a rich artistic heritage, making it a cultural and commercial hub in Belgium.

Friday, November 21 - Dordrecht, Netherlands and Kinderdijk, Netherlands

Dordrecht, Netherlands is the country’s oldest city, known for its charming canals, historic merchant houses, and vibrant art scene. Located at the meeting point of several rivers, (the Merwede, the Noord, and the Oude Maas). Dordrecht offers picturesque waterfront views, beautiful churches, and a rich maritime history.

Kinderdijk, Netherlands is a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its iconic row of 18th-century windmills. Surrounded by scenic waterways and lush countryside, it offers a unique glimpse into Dutch water management history and is a popular destination for cycling, walking, and photography.

Saturday, November 22 - Amsterdam, Netherlands - Debark AmaStella and train to Paris

Grandchildren joining us today - what fun!!

Sunday, November 23 - Paris, France

Monday, November 24 - Paris, France

Tuesday, November 25 - Paris, France

Wednesday, November 26 - Paris, France

Thursday, November 27 - Paris, France . . . HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

Friday, November 28, Paris, France

Saturday, November 29, Paris, France

Sunday, November 30, Paris to SFO . . . all good things must come to an end.