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2025 - (Part II) Basel, Switzerland to Amsterdam, The Netherlands on AmaWaterways, AmaStella and Paris !!

  • jcapurro1
  • Nov 19
  • 12 min read

Updated: 1 day ago

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Tuesday, November 18 - Ghent, Belgium


. . . a vibrant city known for its medieval architecture, picturesque canals, and lively cultural scene. Highlights include the impressive Gravensteen Castle, the stunning St. Bavo’s Cathedral, and a bustling city center filled with cafes, shops, and historic sites. . . . . but we decided not to go to Ghent. Instead . . .



We bussed to Bruges. Poked around in the old and charming streets. Chocolate and sweet shops are everywhere.


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Who dat?
Who dat?
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Belgium has 2000 beers for visitors and residents to taste. People here must live on beer and chocolate!!

I know, not chocolate, but macaroons are also everywhere!
I know, not chocolate, but macaroons are also everywhere!
. . . . and HUGE meringues!
. . . . and HUGE meringues!
Some of the 2000 beers!!
Some of the 2000 beers!!

Visited the local church which houses MichaelAngelo's lovely sculpture of Madonna and Child.

  

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The church, Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekerk housed a museum as well, and had some stunning pieces.


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Walked around and found a wonderful cafe that offered coffee or chocolate, laced with more of that good stuff. This time hot chocolate with cognac and of course, more whipped cream. I walked with great ease after that hot chocolate!!


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Highly recommend the restaurant we visited for lunch - listed in Bib Gourmand - Bar Jacobin. Our food was outstanding, and for me challenged our three star Michelin dinner at the beginning of the trip.


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Scallop
Scallop

Beetroot
Beetroot
We really liked the beetroot!!
We really liked the beetroot!!
Mussels
Mussels
Venison
Venison
Mushrooms
Mushrooms
Chicken!   Oh Wow!  Was this good!!
Chicken! Oh Wow! Was this good!!
Pork Shoulder
Pork Shoulder

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Did over 10,000 steps again today. Skipped dinner, and after two cocktails, said goodnight . . . I think everyone skipped dinner and went to bed.


Wednesday, November 19 - Brussels, Belgium


. . . the capital city known for its stunning Grand Place, rich history, and diverse architecture. It’s famous for its delicious chocolates, waffles, and vibrant cultural scene, as well as being the administrative center of the European Union.


Cathedralis Bruxellensis, of SS. Michaelis and Gudulae.


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Candles lit for Christina and Adolfo
Candles lit for Christina and Adolfo
St.  Gudule of Belgium
St. Gudule of Belgium

Lunch today at Restaurant de l'Ogenblik. Rose and Stephen had been here before. It's not a fancy place, but a restaurant patronized by the locals. Food was very good.


Octopus
Octopus
Duck Confit
Duck Confit
Seabass and Risotto
Seabass and Risotto

Salmon
Salmon
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In Delirium Cafe you can taste more of the 2000 beers of Belgium!
In Delirium Cafe you can taste more of the 2000 beers of Belgium!
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Thursday, November 20 - Antwerp, Belgium


. . . a dynamic port city renowned for its impressive cathedral, vibrant fashion scene, and historic diamond district. The city features beautiful medieval architecture, lively markets, and a rich artistic heritage, making it a cultural and commercial hub in Belgium.


Though we had several different ship's tours scheduled between the five of us, we've cancelled those and are going to walk into town and just wander. Could this have anything to do with Antwerp being the diamond capital of the world, and the fellas want to keep an eye on the girls? Of course, not!!!

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Reubens Assumption of the Holy Virgin
Reubens Assumption of the Holy Virgin
Reubens Resurrection of Christ
Reubens Resurrection of Christ
Grands are traveling tomorrow, so lit candles for their safe journey, and more candles for special intentions.  I love lighting candles for those I love when I travel!
Grands are traveling tomorrow, so lit candles for their safe journey, and more candles for special intentions. I love lighting candles for those I love when I travel!
Must look this up to see what it represents.   The explanation was in Flemish!   To me it looks as though he's balancing his cross in life - as we all do!  Lucky he only has one!!
Must look this up to see what it represents. The explanation was in Flemish! To me it looks as though he's balancing his cross in life - as we all do! Lucky he only has one!!

We walked and walked - another day with lots of steps and that's good because when walking one stays warm. Temperatures are in the high 30's, low 40's . . . very brisk. Today I totalled almost 9000 steps. Hate to admit that walking each day becomes easier, so I believe this message is finally getting through to me . . . when I get home, must do daily long walks.


We visited the Church of Our Lady, one of the best churches, so far, with several works from Reubens, most tryptichs than I've seen in a while, many side altars and chapels. Beautiful church, dramatic, warm, very well kept . . . the kind of church that when you step inside, you are called to prayer - not a bad thing!!!


One thing to not miss was the train station - it's big, old, ornate, and dark! . . . and busy! Glad we saw it.


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The Gros Markt was too far away from us and in the wrong direction so we skipped that - perhaps another time.


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Lunch at 't Hofke - another delicious meal, four different choices, each one better than the next. John and Steve had beef stew; I had tagliatelle with prawns, carrots, leeks and chicken; Sandi enjoyed a beautiful bowl of zucchini soup; and Rose raved over the salmon. Have never enjoyed a meal that came to the table so hot, and which meal stayed hot to the bottom of the plate.


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Warm apple cobbler with vanilla ice cream.
Warm apple cobbler with vanilla ice cream.

John and Stephen have done a great job finding us good restaurants this past week, and have also treated. Won't let me participate!!!!


Tired today, so went to bed early with a good book - skipped dinner.



Friday, November 21 - Dordrecht, Netherlands and Kinderdijk, Netherlands


Dordrecht, Netherlands is the country’s oldest city, known for its charming canals, historic merchant houses, and vibrant art scene. Located at the meeting point of several rivers, (the Merwede, the Noord, and the Oude Maas). Dordrecht offers picturesque waterfront views, beautiful churches, and a rich maritime history.



Kinderdijk, Netherlands is a UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its iconic row of 18th-century windmills. Surrounded by scenic waterways and lush countryside, it offers a unique glimpse into Dutch water management history and is a popular destination for cycling, walking, and photography.


Am taking the day off today. It's time to get ready for Paris. Hair washing, manicure (by me!), and packing. The kids have way more energy than I so this morning they are visiting Kinderdijk, and this afternoon they're taking a tour to Rotterdam. Think I've been there - but can't remember when!


A quick rundown on the ship and services - the ship was clean and well kept; staff was so friendly and accommodating. Bartender, Wolfie, was charming and entertaining. Matija, the cruise director, was delightful, helpful and warm. Liked him a lot! Entertainment on the ship after dinner was quite good. My only average, or less than average, marks go to food prep. Not terribly creative nor tasty, but adequate. We found in the second week, that it was best to have our main meal ashore, where we enjoyed some really good food, and then perhaps skip dinner or just have a light snack.


Also, in comparing the river cruise I did on the Danube, with this cruise on the Rhine, in some ways I prefer the Danube because when the ship docks, one is often right in the town and bus rides to destinations are not often necessary. Would I do this again? Yes!


Saturday, November 22 - Amsterdam, Netherlands - Debark AmaStella and train to Paris

 

Grandchildren joining us today - what fun!!


Checking out of the AmaStella this morning was quite easy. We were able to keep our luggage until 9:00 a.m., when we would be vacating our rooms. We chose to stay onboard in the lounge until it was closer to our train departure. Since we could see the train station from the ship, we decided on a brisk walk. I could not have done this walk without John and Stephen who hoisted the heavy baggage up and down a bunch of stairs. Once we were on the flat it was an easy walk with rolling luggage. Had a bit of a wait until we could board our EuroStar to Paris, and then we were whizzing through the countryside of The Netherlands, Belgium, and finally France - an almost four hour trip. In France, fields were white with snow - so pretty!


What a shock when we finally reached Paris, the Gare du Nord, and entered into the frigid air and wind somewhere in the low 30's. BRRRRR! Within minutes we had ordered an Uber and were on our way to the Hotel San Louis en L'iIle. Through texts we found that Trent and Alex had arrived in the morning and because their rooms were ready, were able to settle down for a post flight nap! Joe and Sofia had a delay at the airport with a missing piece of luggage and were also firmly ensconed at the hotel. All four children came from different locations, but siblings were able to be on the same connecting flights to Paris. They came from Austin, Texas - Bloomington, Indiana - Phoenix, Arizona and San Francisco.


After we got semi-settled, we all met for a walk to a local restaurant - not great food, but they could accommodate all nine of us! Don't think that happens too often! After dinner, we weren't ready to call it a night, so we found another place where we could have coffee, chocolate, or more wine. Don't think anyone wanted to end this long awaited reunion.


And then to bed . . . it had been a long day . . .


Sunday, November 23 - Paris, France


I made reservations for a guided tour this morning for the Conciergerie, St. Chapelle, and the exterior of Notre Dame. It was rainy and cold, and although our guide, William, kept us waiting a bit in the inclement weather, he was a good and informative guide. I'd never been to the Conciergerie, and had also not visited one small side chapel, and then the beautiful St. Chapelle - AAAAH - those exquisite stained glass windows!

The photos on the left and right show a part of the vast King's dining hall.  In the middle Sofia, Steve and Rose stand in one of four HUGE fireplaces in the kitchen hall.  There is one in each corner and these fireplaces were used for cooking.   Can you imagine the size of the pots?
The photos on the left and right show a part of the vast King's dining hall. In the middle Sofia, Steve and Rose stand in one of four HUGE fireplaces in the kitchen hall. There is one in each corner and these fireplaces were used for cooking. Can you imagine the size of the pots?

Smaller chapel we visited between Conciergerie and St. Chapelle.
Smaller chapel we visited between Conciergerie and St. Chapelle.

The beautiful stained glass windows of St. Chapelle are awe inspiring. This is my third visit, and the first where the skies were grey. This did slightly dampen the glorious colors of the glass, but still very beautiful.


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We then walked over to the Marais, to find lunch. There's a famous Jewish deli there that we'd hoped to patronize, but alas, no seats.

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So nearby we were accommodated (a party of nine isn't easy!) and served the most beautiful and over-the-top pastrami with red cabbage . . . and other delicious choices.

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Then a walk back for a rest and another good dinner out at a neighborhood restaurant, Brasserie Albert where we were given a private room with an absolutely lovely waitress, Natalie! She helped make the evening a complete success - food was super delicious.


Risotto made with Spelt
Risotto made with Spelt
Duck Breast with a side of sauteed spinach and mushrooms, mashed potatoes!
Duck Breast with a side of sauteed spinach and mushrooms, mashed potatoes!

Following dinner, we wandered over to a jazz club. What an experience that was! Looking back on it I'm horrified that I was able to do the climb down (and back up!) through very narrow corridors and stairways. Was it claustrophic? YES! Once in the little room at the bottom of the world, a four piece band played, people danced (primarily swing - love that dance!). We stood where we were directed - no table, no chairs, no drinks, blocking views of the people behind us! UGH! Felt like a sardine in a can - not comfortable. The highlight for me was the singer who belted out "Lulu's Back In Town" - I knew it so sang at the top of my lungs - no one could hear me in the cacophony!! We finally worked our way over to the narrow stairway back through the cave and climbed out to find that Sandi and Rose had ventured part way and decided against the descent. They were waiting for us to emerge from the cave.


Monday, November 24 - Paris, France


Today we had reservations for a guided tour of highlights of the Louvre. Sandi and I preferred to take an Uber, while the others walked. This was our undoing because of traffic.

It took us almost an hour to reach the Louvre which was only one and a half miles away. We missed our tour and there was no way we could catch up with the gang, nor were we able to procure tickets and go in on our own - it was sold out! Luckily, Sandi had visited the museum in a prior trip to Paris, and I'd enjoyed the Louvre twice before.


We decided to walk to Galleries Lafayette, and spend a couple of hours browsing beautiful clothing and accessories, stopped for a delightful champagne cocktail, and walked back to meet the rest of our party and find lunch. DONE!


Along the way I'd reach into my purse for my telephone to come out with a bleeding finger because the glass protector had broken. A little piece of glass stuck in my thumb and there was blood everywhere! Finally stopped, and as we headed back we knew there was an Apple store on the way. Phone got fixed!!


Back to the hotel for a quick refresh and we were splitting up for the evening. Steve's family went to the opera - Le Nozze de Figaro (The Marriage of Figaro).


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John's family and I went to the Moulin Rouge (I'd never been). First we had a glass of wine at a cafe in the neighborhood, went on to dinner at a retaurant which translated into "Blue Pig". Good food, better staff, and great wine - and of course, the company of family is always wonderful - I am blessed. Drank two good wines tonight - a Sancerre before dinner, and a Viognier during dinner.


Then it was on to the show! It was quite a production, with only a small part of the show being the old fashioned Can-Can. Too soon over . . . The rest of the show was a true "tits and ass" experience - but very beautiful and talented young women The in between acts performed during costume changes, were the hit of the evening for me. Acrobatics and grace - beautifully performed. . . . . and we enjoyed a good bottle of Chateauneuf du Pape during the show! No photos are allowed during the show.


Finally back to our hotel and in bed close to midnight!


Tuesday, November 25 - Paris, France


Slept until almost 9:00 this morning - was totally spent last night - yesterday I walked 13,795 steps - that's a bunch for me! Today we are scheduled for a guided interior tour of the "new" Notre Dame. Can't wait . . .


We nearly froze into popsicles while getting the outside part of the tour - very cold and wet. The cathedral is vibrant after the cleanup. Cannot get over the light inside, as I remember a beautiful, yet dark, church.


With hearing aids, the use of the ear buds and mechanisms provided by the guide is almost impossible, so I did a wander. Sat for about thirty minutes in the prayer section close to the main altar of the church (no photos possible there). Took in the renewed beauty of Notre Dame, gave thanks for this trip, for my family and friends, and especially for the opportunity to see four of my grandchildren enjoy Paris for the first time in their lives.


Did you know that before the fire at Notre Dame, the spire of the church sported a golden rooster on the top. With the new tower, it was decided to replace the rooster with a phoenix - appropriate, don't you think? . . . rising from the ashes. There is an extraordinary pieta of white marble (Madonna and Christ) at the altar, but could not get close to it. During the fire and the lead melting from above, miraculously nothing sullied the sculpture, except for one drop on the hand of Jesus thereby creating a "new" stigmata on his hand.


It is also believed that days before the fire, because the statues of the twelve apostles that stand on the roof of the church were removed for repair, the removal of these statues also removed the protection of the church - ergo - the fire. The good thing is that because they were being repaired, they now stand once again on the roof of the Cathedral, fully restored. Protection also restored.

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Don't understand why this outstanding organ was installed right in front of a beautiful stained glass window . . .
Don't understand why this outstanding organ was installed right in front of a beautiful stained glass window . . .

Here are some artifacts from the Notre Dame Treasury.


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After a rest it was off to La Vieux Belleville. Sofia was to meet us there as she'd been on a solo wander during the afternoon. Rose is getting sick with a bad cold, so decided to stay in and rest. The boys walked the very long distance to the neighborhood restaurant, and Sandi and I Ubered through some really suspect neighborhoods, very dark and unlit streets . . I was getting nervous!! We finally made it to the restaurant to find that Sofia had beat us there and had our table. We joined her and waited for the boys to join us - they did.


Now, about this restaurant . . . it is a place for locals, charming, everyone smiling, drinking local wines, choosing foods from the limited menu and enjoying every minute. Being in the moment of a warm and wonderful atmosphere. Then came the beautiful older woman who sang the songs of Edith Piaf (wonderful!), accompanied by a man with an accordian that had buttons on both sides of the instrument. No piano keyboard for the right hand, but similar buttons as the left hand. Accordian was my first instrument, and though I tried to figure out what I was seeing on the right hand keyboard, I failed miserably.

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Throughout the evening, each table was selected to sing a song. We'd hoped that they'd forgotten about us, but alas - we were finally chosen. We decided on "I Left My Heart in San Francisco". Everyone at our table (our loving family!) hung us out to dry and stayed silent, as Sandi and I tried to sing a song where the lyrics had completed disappeared from our minds! So awful! Lots of lalalalala's and laughter.


(Continued in Part III)



 
 
 

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